free, we do not consider it bondage to pay taxes for the support of a Government which we choose, and which cannot be administered without expense."

On my happening to mention the name of Mavromichaëlis, the Captain observed to me, "I am his enemy ;" and related an unhappy affair which had just taken place between a friend of his and a member of the family of Mavromichaëlis, in which one of them had been wounded, and, as it was supposed, mortally. He then went on to make some remarks with regard to the character of his countrymen, the inhabitants of Mani. "We have ever," said he, "from time immemorial, been quarrelling and fighting with one another. When the common enemy approached us, we united to oppose him; but, as soon as he was gone, we commenced fighting among ourselves. One village often wages war upon another village; and the inhabitants thus rob and kill one another, and do one another all the mischief in their power. And this we do," added he with a seeming pride, and in way of boasting of their high spirit," and this we do for a WORD ONLY!" I replied, "Jesus Christ teaches us to love our enemies!" On my uttering this, there seemed to be a little movement among several present; and some of them said, in a low voice, "Surely he cannot mean to say, that we should love the TURKS?" and some thought I had not expressed what I intended to say.

As soon as the hum of this conversation had ceased, I proceeded to shew them, that I had made no mistake in what I had uttered -that to be a Christian, was to follow Christ -and to follow Christ, was to do as He did, and to possess His spirit- that He did good to His enemies, and prayed for those who crucified Him-that He had taught us to be perfect as our Father in heaven is perfect-that He causes the sun to rise on the evil and on the good; on Turks, Jews, and Christians; and sends rain upon the fields of the just and the unjust-that if they loved those only who loved them, and did good only to them, they would do no more than the most abandoned robber on the desert would do that although they possessed the boldness and courage of the ancient Spartans, and feared not, and ought not to fear man, yet they should remember that God is the King of the Universe, and has a right to be King, and must be feared, and His laws obeyed-that love to Christ should lead us to refrain from many things which we might naturally wish to do that if I had a dear friend, to whom I was indebted for all that I enjoyed, I would refrain from what I knew would displease that friend-that Christ is the Sinner's Friend; and all we have, or Nov. 1829.

hope for, is of Him and through Him; and His love, manifested in Gethsemane and on Calvary, in His bloody sweat and His death, should constrain us to FORGIVE one another; and not make war upon one another, and kill one another, and that for a single WORD.

In this manner I addressed the Captain, and his companions and soldiers, and all present; who listened with the most profound attention. But of the whole company, none listened with more apparently intense interest than the Captain, whose warlike countenance seemed to soften-and, when speaking of the love of Christ, he seemed a little affected. All looked at him for an answer. He replied, "Formerly I thought differently; but you turn my head. What you say is true. That is the True Religion; and this is what we need to hear, and what I never heard before."

After this conversation, he went with me to call on the Bishop of Sparta; and remained while I remained, and took part in the conversation. The Bishop spoke of the Letters from the Ladies in America, with a great deal of interest: and also of the Societies, which had been formed in England and America to send out books; and observed, what I was surprised to hear him say--" We have been living in darkness; but, by means of those books which have been sent to us, and the coming of more, and then one to preach the truth, a little light is beginning to shine upon us." He also expressed a desire to have Schools established, both for Males and Females. The Captain thought that the prejudice against females being taught to read would not, at present, permit of schools being established for them; but that it might, perhaps, be accomplished three or four years hence. With regard to the Letters from the Ladies in America, the Captain remarked to me, when at the coffeehouse, "When I read them, I wept ;" and, in the true oriental style, said, "rivers of tears ran down my cheeks-many weptand the man, who could read them without weeping, must have been harder than adamant."

From the Bishop's, I went to call on the Governor, who invited me to remain and dine with him, in company with some of the Maniote Captains and a Bishop.

On returning to Marathonisi, just as I was entering the place, I observed, near a Church, a great quantity of human bones piled up; and on inquiring whose bones these were, I was told that they were the bones of Greeks, who had been buried near the Church, and dug up to be examined by the priests, in order to learn if all were well with their souls in the other world-that it is the custom, at the expiration of one year after a person is

3 U

buried, to open his grave, and for the priests to examine his bones-that if they find BLACK FLESH upon them, they conclude that he is in misery; and lay him back in his grave, and the friends of the deceased then give alms, and give money to the priests to say prayers for the departed soul; and, at the expiration of the second year, the body is again inspected, and if all is well his bones are left above ground: but if, after two or three inspections, there be still black flesh or other bad things, they conclude that the man during his life-time committed some mortal sin, and can never be pardoned. If a man died instantaneously, as when shot in battle, and at the moment of his death had evil thoughts in his mind, they suppose his brains remain: if hair is found on the scull of a female, it is a proof of her having combed her head on the Sabbath, and paid much attention to her dress and appearance.

The man, who explained this to me, seemed most fully to believe it; and replied with much warmth to another, who said that he believed it was only a figment of the priests in order to get money,

In the evening, the Captain called and informed me that he was about to go to Crete, with 2000 Spartans, of whom he was to have the command. Conversed with him again on the importance of following Christ in the regeneration, and being prepared for another world. Many others also called. The interest which the Captain manifested in me, seemed to give me a good deal of celebrity.

This was to me a most interesting day. The reception which I met with among this rude and fierce people, and the apparent interest with which they listened to the truths of the Gospel, left upon my mind a strong impression, that they perish principally for lack of knowledge.

Among those who called in the evening, one observed, in speaking of the Spartans, that before the President Capo d'Istria came, they were continually quarrelling among themselves-committed thefts and robberies -and sometimes murdered those whom they robbed, in order to avoid being known and falling under the displeasure of some Captain who might feel an interest in the one despoiled. "We Spartans," said he, "are of a peculiar character: we are ashamed to ask alms, but not ashamed to commit robbery we will not eat meat, but rob."

Nov. 16, 1828: Sunday-One of the Demogerontes from Skoutari called, and expressed a wish that I should preach in the Church he said that the Captain had sent him to tell me, that he wished me to speak freely to the people the Gospel, and without fear; and observed that my appearance in the place and my conversation had excited a

good deal of wonder-that some thought it was "the second coming of Elias!"

This language was to me so unexpected and so strange, that I hardly knew what to think of it-whether the man was sincere,or whether he wished to flatter me; and if so, why he should come with such a message from the Captain, whom I should soon see, and might detect the falsehood, if it were such or whether the Lord was indeed opening before me a door, into which I should enter. I replied, that if the people wished me to speak in the Church, I should be willing so to do. Soon after, the Captain called, and said that the celebration of a wedding that day would prevent most of the people from going to Church, to hear a Discourse; but that he should be glad to have me remain a few days, at the expiration of which, some thousands were to be assembled there from different parts of Sparta, and that I should make an address to them all.

The Governor afterward called, and gave me a formal invitation to speak in the Church the next day. I doubted the propriety of my taking such a step at this moment, lest I should awaken much enmity, which might perhaps try to throw obstacles in the way of distributing the Scriptures and establishing Schools, which seem to me now the most important means for the renovation of Greece. I, however, consented; and made it a subject of prayer, that I might be directed in the path of duty.

During the day, multitudes called, both young and old, to solicit New-Testaments, School-books, and Tracts; and, among those who called, were many of the Demogerontes from different parts of Laconia.

In the evening, one of the Demogerontes from Skoutari called, and begged me to go to his village to preach to the people, saying "We live in ignorance. This day, for the first time, have I known my faith: before, I made the sign of the Cross, but knew not what it meant." This I could easily believe; but there was something in his appearance, which made me suspect that he was not altogether sincere. I, however, took the opportunity of endeavouring to impress on his mind the truth of the Gospel. The Lord only knows the heart.

Nov. 17-Several circumstances occurred, which caused the Service, above mentioned, in the Church to be omitted. Spent the day in visiting and receiving visits. Many of the Demogerontes, from different parts of Laconia, called and invited me to visit their villages. To all, or nearly all, I gave Tracts, and conversed with them on the importance of their making great exertions to establish Schools and to put the Gospel into the hands of their children; as, without the Gospel, the

Spartans to be educated. He seemed delighted with the idea; and has ever since been urging me to write to my friends, so that the School may be established.

Interview with the Son of Petro-Bey.

Nov. 19, 1828-I procured a mule, to go up to Tchimova, about one hour's distance from Tchimova Limeni; but found the road so steep and rough, and the mule proceeded with so much difficulty, that I sent it back, and went on foot. The greater part of the way was like going up stairs; and when I arrived at the top of the mountain, the road and the fields seemed completely covered with stone. On entering the village-a stranger, unaccompanied by any person, in a Frank dress, and unarmed-the people stared at me, and seemed not to wish to enter into conversation with me: they were all armed; and their appearance struck me as quite savage.

On my inquiring for the house of Byzande, (as he is called,) the son of Petro-Bey, a soldier beckoned to me to follow him, which I did; but, after following him for awhile, I began to think that he might be leading me astray, and demanded of him if he were conducting me to the house of Byzande. Instead of answering, he made signs, that I should follow him; and I began to talk to him in rather an angry tone of voice, and asked him if he could not answer me. He then said that he was going to the place which I wished; and pushed on, and I followed.

The

At length he brought me to a place where I mounted by a narrow stair-case on the outside of a building; and at the top of which a door opened, and I entered into a room where were several armed men. door was closed; and, following my guide, I proceeded through one room and another, then went out upon the roof of another house, which I passed close to the eaves, and entered another building. After being led through two or three small rooms, I was conducted to a flight of steps, narrow and steep, and at the top of which was a trap-door. Here I was bid to ascend. I began to doubt my guide's fidelity; for I said, "It cannot be that the son of Petro-Bey lives up in such a place." I hesitated; and demanded again, in order to be assured. My guide said, "Yes," cried out to the people above, and the trap door opened; and I mounted, half expecting to find myself deceived. As soon as I had fairly set foot on the floor above, down went the trap-door again; and I found myself in a very decent room, hung round with swords and pistols on a sofa sat several men, with arms; and on a couch, in one corner of th room, reclined the man whom I wished

to see. He was ill; but, making a little effort, he half raised himself, and gave me his hand in a most friendly manner, introduced me to those present, and said, "You see to what a situation we are reduced, and how we live." This was Georgius, the second son of Mavromichaëlis. I had seen him before at Egina.

Here I spent some time in interesting conversation-gave some little School-books and Tracts to all present--and then went out to see two small Schools, where the children have the means of learning almost nothing. Among them, also, I distributed Tracts and School-books.

On returning to the house of Georgius, he proposed and urged that I should visit a place in the vicinity, called Charia. I, at length, consented; and, a mule being provided, I mounted and set out for Charia, accompanied by two men, one to lead the mule, and the other to flog him and protect me. The latter was armed with gun and pistols. I know not that I ever rode in more fear, not of robbers, but of falling on sharp-pointed stones and craggy rocks, which shot up out of the ground in every direction. In the midst of these, I saw, here and there, men and women labouring to sow a little barley, with almost the sure expectation of a scanty harvest. In fact I could hardly conceive how it is possible for the people to live in such a stony region, even in time of peace. At Charia are 80 houses and 500 souls. At Pyrgon, about half-anhour from Charia, are about 300 houses and 1200 souls. At Charia, I went into almost every house, to see how the people appeared, and how they lived; and I must confess, I thought of what the Monk had said to Holy men-go and see how they live, and you will forgive them." The bread which they had to eat was made of oatmeal and beans; and of this, they had but a scanty portion. They have little else but rocks and liberty.

me,

circumstances would permit, to read the Scriptures and have prayers with my servants he replied, "I hope you will do so here. What! are we not Christians?" During prayer, he kneeled with us; and afterward expressed much satisfaction in hearing a prayer in Modern Greek.

Nov. 23, 1828: Sunday -The Demoge rontes, five in number, called to pay me their respects-expressed much gratitude to America, and great interest in the Letters from the American Ladies-and treated me with the greatest politeness. Conversed much with them on the subject of religion; and gave them some School-books and Tracts, for which they seemed quite grateful. They informed me that they intend to establish, as soon as possible, a Lancasterian School. In the evening, I had much conversation with the Governor, on the subject of fasting and prayer, the Councils of the Fathers, the ignorance of the Priests, and the errors of the Greek Church. On all these subjects, he conversed with much animation; and seemed to have very correct views; and said he looked forward to the time, when they should have an enlightened religion, and when the errors now existing would be done away; but that the work must be gradual, and by means of Schools. With him, also, I had an interesting season in reading the Scriptures and in prayer.

Calamata has now a population of about 3000 souls, all living in the midst of ruins. The Governor's house, which might be supposed to be as good as any in the place, consisted of one room below for the servants, and one above, in which we slept, and into which we entered by a trap-door.

The scenery around the city is delightful. Numerous gardens of oranges, figs, sweet and sour lemons, and citrons, are to be seen in every direction. Hedges of prickly-pears are to be found, also, in abundance. The mulberry and the olive flourish here; but the olives have been extensively destroyed by Ibrahim: ten years of prosperity would hardly repair the damage which these have sustained.

Nesi.

Nov. 24-Arrived at Nesi in about three hours: the road is through a plain, which has everywhere been laid waste by the Turks and Arabs. I called on one of the Demogerontes; who informed me, that such was the ruined state of the village, that it would be very difficult to find a place where I could lodge so I concluded to go on my journey, and had mules procured for that purpose. The district of Nesi contains, according to the Demogerontes, about 4000 souls, and not a single School. All is ruins!

As the sun went down, I arrived at a place called Petalida, where is what is called a Khan, and three or four families living in cabins.

Coron.

Nov. 25-Rose about midnight; and, at two o'clock, set out on my journey. At daybreak, I found myself near a village; and when the sun arose, it discovered to me the stumps of thousands of ancient olives that had been wantonly cut down and burned down, by Ibrahim. At half-past nine, I arrived at Coron, where I met with a most cordial welcome from the Governor, Antonius Jounas: he is Governor of, or Agent Extraordinary for, Upper Messenia.

Desolations, but opening Prospects, in
Upper Messenia.

From the Governor, I learned that there are, in Upper Messenia, 10,000 souls; and that there is not a single School in existence in that district- that, under the Turks, Schools were not here permitted; or were established with so much difficulty, that the greater part of the people were left in a state of great ignorance-that, in Coron, are about 1500 inhabitants, and that the poorer part of the former population is yet in dispersion -that in the district of Coron, Ibrahim destroyed two hundred and ninety thousand olives, and that there are only ten thousand now remaining-that this he knew from the reports made to him, by men whom he had ordered to take the number of the olives now standing and of the stumps of those that had been destroyed.

On my speaking to him of the importance of establishing Schools, among all the people, he observed, that the places the most important, and in which he greatly desired to establish Schools, were, Coron, Modon, Navarino, Gargalianos, Philiatra, Arcadia, Zourja, and Aeton; and expressed an earnest desire, that the Americans, who were sending them food and clothing, would, if possible, aid them in a still more noble and useful manner, in the establishment of these Schools. "The Americans," said he, "have done much for us, and we owe them everlasting gratitude: but if they could establish Schools for us, the benefit conferred would be far greater than that of food and clothing, which is soon gone, and we are left in the same situation in which we were before; but the effect of these Schools would be without end."

What an apparent opening for doing good! The man, who should establish these Schools, might, in all probability, put the Gospel into the hands of every child in Upper Messenia; and the Gospel will enlighten the ignorant, and raise any people under heaven from degradation.