them. Plant Ruga and Felicite perpetuelle, and on the latter you can bud others for a trial; but very few roses will take well on Ruga anywhere, much less on a north aspect.

FRUIT TREES, &c., FOR AUSTRALIA (Rev. G. G.).-Vines and figs are the only fruit-trees that would be likely to reach Australia safe in the shape of cuttings, but which varieties would succeed best we cannot say. Cuttings of all the European grape-vines have been already taken out to Sidney, and freely distributed. Cuttings of trees and shrubs can hardly be taken there; seeds are much the best way of carrying them, and all that you can procure that way will be useful, although not new to the settlements. It is just the same there as here about kitchen-garden seeds; the best sorts are the most useful. You will not be able to effect a cross between our fine pelargoniums and the wild tuberous rooted kinds; besides, the latter are not indigenous in Australia, but in South Africa only. There is little doubt, however, but crosses can be had at Sidney which we cannot obtain here. Bees have been taken to New Zealand, but we heard they did not succeed well afterwards.

UMBRELLA-SHAPED TRELLISES (Rev. J. S. Lievre).-If we had these upon our lawn, we should make each of them the supporters of two weeping roses; say Crimson Boursault and Princess Louise, or Felicite perpetuelle. We should make the soil very rich, and plant immediately.

TREE-SEEDS FOR NEW ZEALAND (Rev. P. Fillent).-We will, for once, break through our firmest rule, and say, that if we were to emigrate to New Zealand, or to anywhere else, we would put our case in the hands of Mr. Charlwood, 14, Tavistock-row, Covent-garden, London, for all kinds of seeds, roots, &c., although we have had no business transactions with him these many years.

POTATO-PLANTING, &c. (F. C.).-Pray refer to our No. 58; we have nothing at present to add to the editorial there published. Your mushroom-bed will never supply you with mushrooms enough for making catsup. Their being hard and dry arises probably from a deficiency of moisture. Sprinkle the surface, as required, gently with tepid water.

HEATH CUTTINGS (Ibid).-You ask for "the best time for striking these?" But it is impossible to give a direct answer unless we knew the species you wish to propagate. Those which bloom late, and continue to grow even through the winter, such as Erica verticillata, gracilis, &c., will not have the shoots sufficiently matured for cuttings until early spring. Perhaps, the best general rule we can give is, plant your cuttings immediately the young wood of the shoots is ripe.

PASSION-FLOWERS FOR SOUTH WALL (Ibid).-Besides the common, you may grow Herbert's Passion-Flower. The end of June is the best time for planting the main crop of celery. You will find abundance of information on its culture in the present and previous numbers.

NAMES OF PLANTS AND FRUIT.-(M. B.)-The leaf you sent is that of Scolopendrium officinarum, the Common Hart's-tongue fern. (H. W. Livett.)-Your creeper is Tropoolum tuberosum, or Tuberous-rooted nasturtium. (Hester S.)-The large white fungus growing just below the surface of the soil is the Lycoperdon pratense, or Underground Puff-ball. (Clericus Rusticus.)—Your apples are-1, Ribstone Pippin; 2, Unknown; 3, Beauty of Kent; 4, Newton Spitzemberg; 5, Sykehouse Russet; 6, Old Nonpareil; 7, Cornish Gilliflower; 8, Russet Nonpareil.

CALENDAR FOR DECEMBER.

GREEHOUSE.

AIR, admit freely when the external temperature is above 35°. BULBS, well rooted in pots, place in gentle heat for early blooming; keep mice from the successions. CALCEOLARIAS, CINERARIAS, CAMELLIAS, &c., attend to with heat and moisture, according to the time you desire them to be in bloom. CLIMBERS, prune them generally, to give light to the plants beneath them. Train and clean winter-flowering ones, such as Kennedya, Manettiae, and various Tropœolums. EARTH in pots and borders keep fresh by stirring. GERANIUMS, encourage the forwardest when early blooming is desirable. HEATHS, keep cool, and give abundance of air in mild clear weather. HEAT, by fires, apply when necessary. IXIAS, GLADIOLI, and the hardier LILIES, pot and set in a cold pit, to be protected from frost. INSECTS, keep under, by fumigating and scrubbing. LEAVES-dirty, wash; decayed, remove. MIGNONETTE, take in a few pots now and then. PRIMULA (Chinese), introduce; water with manure liquid. The double white give a favourable and warm position. Roses, and other SHRUBS, introduce for forcing. SALVIA SPLENDENS, supply liberally with water, and give it a warm corner. SUCCULENTS keep dry, and Cactus especially, except the Truncatus, which will now be in bloom. WATER sparingly, unless when the flower-buds are swelling and opened; give it after breakfast, and with liquid rather higher than the temperature of the house. TEMPERATURE, 45° during the day, 40° at night, with from 5° to 10° more, at a warm end, or in a conservatory, for placing tenderer and forced flowers when first introduced. In severe weather, prefer covering, even during the day, to large fires.

FLOWER GARDEN.

R. FISH.

defend generally from inclement weather. GRASS, mow and roll occasionally, if winter be mild. GRAVEL, roll and keep orderly. HEDGES, plant and plash. HYACINTHS, defend in inclement weather. LEAVES, collect for composts. MULCH round the roots and stems of shrubs newly planted. PLANT shrubs of all kinds. POTTED PLANTS, protect in deep frames, &c.; place in hothouse for forcing. PRUNE all shrubs requiring regulation. RANUNCULUSES, defend in bad weather; plant, if mild. SEEDLINGS of all kinds require protection. STAKE shrubs newly planted, and any others requiring support. SUCKERS may be planted as removed during the winter dressing. TULIPS, defend in bad weather. TURF may be laid in open weather. WATER in glasses, change weekly; add a few grains of salt or five drops of spirit of hartshorn.

ORCHARD,

ALMONDS, plant. APPLES (Espalier), prune, &c.; plant, &c. APRICOTS, plant; prune and train in frosty weather. BRINE, apply with a scrubbing brush to stems and branches of fruit-trees, to destroy insects, eggs, and moss. CHERRIES (Wall and Espalier), prune and train; plant. CHESNUTS, plant. CURRANTS, prune; plant. CUTTINGS of Gooseberries and Currants may be planted. ESPALIERS, prune and regulate. FiGs, protect from frost. FILBERTS, plant. FORK the surface around fruit-trees. GOOSEBERRIES, plant; prune. LAYERS, plant. MEDLARS, plant. MULBERRIES, plant. MULCH, put around newly planted trees. NECTARINES, plant; prune and train in frosty weather. PEACHES (See NECTA RINES). PEARS, plant; (Espalier), prune, &c. PLUMS, plant; (Wall and Espalier), prune. PRUNING, attend to generally. QUINCES, plant. RASPBERRIES, plant; prune. SERVICES, plant. SNAILS, destroy in their torpid state. STAKE and support trees newly planted. STANDARDS, remove dead and irregular branches from. SUCKERS, plant. TRENCH and prepare borders, &c., for planting. VINES, plant, prune, and train. WALNUTS, plant. WALL-TREES generally, prune and regulate. WALLS-it is a very beneficial plan to paint these by means of a white-washer's brush, with a liquid mixture of 8lbs. lime, 4lbs. soot, and 8lbs. sulphur. It destroys and banishes insects, as well as by its dark colour promoting the warmth of the wall. The liquid employed in which to mix the above should be urine and soapsuds in equal proportions.

Any trees proposed to be regrafted in the spring may be headed down now in open weather, but the stumps of the branches should be left sufficiently long to permit a few inches more to be cut off at the time of grafting. R. ERRINGTON.

PLANT STOVE AND FORCING HOUSE.

AIR, admit as often as circumstances permit. APRICOTS (see PEACH). BARK-BEDS, stir, and renew, if heat declines. CHERRIES (see PEACH). CUCUMBERS, in pots, introduce; water frequently, and train. FIGS (see VINES): they should be in pots in the Vinery. FIRES: beware of too much fire-heat. FLOWERS, in pots (Roses, Carnations, &c.), introduce where room. KIDNEY BEANS, Sow in small pots, not larger than 48s; water frequently when up. LIGHT, admit as freely as possible. MATS, put over glass in very severe weather, even in the day-time, if really necessary. MUSHROOMS, attend to the beds; water if dry; renew exhausted portions on shelves; they require a moist atmosphere. NECTARINES and PEACHES in blossom keep at about 55° during the day, and at night about 40°; water very sparingly; shake branches gently to distribute the pollen; stir earth around often. PINE APPLES (fruiting) require increased bottom-heat to about 78°; water more sparingly; temperature in house from 60° to 70°. SALADING, in boxes, sow successively. SEA-KALE and ASPARAGUS, force successively. STOVE, temp. not above 60° in the day, and at night 40° to 50°. STRAWBERRIES, in pots, introduce; when blossoming, water frequently; day temp. not more than 60°. THERMOMETER, watch its dictates. VINES, in leaf, keep about 60°; in blossom, about 70° during day; at night, 50°; protect stems outside by haybands; give liquid manure, if dry. WASH the leaves of all plants, as requisite, either with a sponge or by watering. WATER, soft and warm as the house, apply as requisite; in pots, &c., keep constantly in the house. R. ERRINGTON.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

ARTICHOKES, dress. ASPARAGUS-BEDS, dress, b.; plant to force; attend that in forcing. BEANS, plant. BEETS (Red), dig up and store, b. BORECOLE, earth up. BROCOLI, lay in with their heads to the north. CABBAGES, plant; earth up. CARROTS, dig up and store, b. CAULIFLOWERS, in frame, &c., attend to. CELERY, earth up, and protect when necessary. COLEWORTS, plant. COMPOSTS, prepare and turn over. DUNG, prepare for hotbeds. EARTHING-UP, attend to. ENDIVE, blanch. HOTBEDS, attend to. KIDNEY BEANS, force, e. LEAVES, fallen, remove. LETTUCES, plant in hotbeds; attend to those advancing. LIQUORICE, dig up. MINT, force. MUSHROOM-BEDS, make; attend to those in production. PARSNIPS, dig up and store, b. PEAS, sow; both in the open ground and in hotbeds; attend to those advancing, protecting them from frost, mice, slugs, and birds. PLANTS to produce seed, attend to, b. POTATOES, plant in hotbeds. RADISHES and SMALL SALADING, Sow in frames, &c. SPINACH, clear of weeds. TANSY, force. TARRAGON, force. TRENCH, drain, &c., vacant ground. WEEDING, attend to.

LONDON: Printed by HARRY WOOLDRIDGE, 147, Strand, in the Parish of Saint Mary-le-Strand; and Winchester High-street, in the Parish of St. Mary Kalendar; and Published by WILLIAM SOMERVILLE ORR, at the Office, 147, Strand, in the Parish of Saint Mary-le-Strand, London.-November 29th, 1849.

ST. NICHOLAS, a native of Patara, in Lycia, was so celebrated for his piety, that Constantine the Great raised him, whilst a layman, to the bishopric of Myra, in Syria, where he died on this day, A.D. 343. So diffused were his benefits, that many classes, from children up to bishops, were considered as under his especial patronage; but on the present occasion we will confine our attention to the fabled origin of his tutelage of schoolboys. Two young students, journeying to Athens, were directed by their father to visit Bishop Nicholas by the way. Arriving late at Myra, they lodged for the night at an inn, where the landlord murdered them, and salted down the pieces of their bodies for the purpose of selling it as pickled pork. The murder was revealed in a vision to the bishop, who, on the morrow, not only was the agent in miraculously re-uniting the dismembered bodies of the boys, and restoring them to life, but also of converting the murderer into a devout Christian! This, says the legend, sufficiently explains the naked children and tub which are the well-known em blems of St. Nicholas. A curious custom, which prevails at some schools, has reference to this guardian saint of boys, and may be remembered by the reader. When a boy at any game of speed or activity requires time to recover breath at those schools, he brings his antagonist to a halt by crying out Nielas. We remember another protective cry in our boyish contests, S'cruce, which, we think, must be a contraction of sancto cruce, and have reference to finding sanctuary by taking hold of the nearest cross.

CONCEPTION OF THE VIRGIN MARY.-This event was believed by many to have occurred in a house that subsequently was brought by angels from Galilee to Loretto in the year 1291. This legend, which became so popular, soon rendered Loretto one of the richest places in the world. Pilgrims flocked thither, and a munificent

INSECTS. During the present and others of the winter months, succulent plants, such as Sedums, &c., become sickly, and die apparently without a cause. They are thus destroyed by a small, footless grub feeding upon them just below the surface of the earth. This grub

church, speedily enclosing the "holy house," was sufficiently endowed by their votive offerings to "Our blessed Lady of Loretto." METEOROLOGY OF THE WEEK.-The average highest temperature of the above seven days, as shown by the Chiswick Garden tables during the last twenty-two years, is 45°, and the average lowest temperature 31.6. During the same time, the highest point the thermometer indicated was on the 9th, in 1817, when the mercury rose to 57°, and it fell the lowest on the 6th in 1846; for it then sank to 14. During the twenty-two weeks, rain fell on seventy-two days, and the other eighty-two days were fine.

NATURAL PHENOMENA INDICATIVE OF WEATHER.-We know people who can tell whether an east wind is blowing as soon as they arise in the morning; and many nervous persons are troubled by its influence during the night with imperfeet sleep, headache, and confused dreams. It is remarkable that good astronomical observations cannot be made when the wind blows from the east. Frequently when the celestial objects seem to wave about before the telescope, an east wind follows, the cause of the waving being the occurrence of the current from the east having before set in from that quarter in the higher regions. These phenomena have never been explained satisfactorily. The whole creation so suffers from the malign influence of the easterly blast, that it has become a proverb

"The wind when in the east

is about half an inch long, colour dirty white, fleshy, slightly curved, bristly, and without legs, but furnished at the sides with tubercles, which aid it in moving. At the latter part of May, these grubs enter the chrysalis state, becoming white, and having the appearance of the body of a beetle stripped of its wings, and in a mummy state. From this state the perfect insect comes forth, at the end of June, in the form of a small beetle, as pictured in the accompanying drawing,

but not longer than the curved line by its side. It is black, slightly glossy, numerously granulated, so as to resemble shagreen, and a few pale-grey hairs scattered over it. The best mode of saving succulents from this pest is to have it very assiduously sought for among them during the month of June. If the beetles are allowed to deposit their eggs, the mischief is done. This beetle is the Otiorhynchus sulcatus of some writers, and the Curculio sulcatus of others.

WE answered a question two weeks since which involves an important principle in gardening, and deserves a more prominent notice than our space for answers to correspondents is calculated to afford. It is in reference to the best time for sowing the seeds of the Ixia tribe, including the Gladioli and others. (See page 92). Our readers have already been informed, in our first volume, that the ixias, and indeed the greater portion of the irids generally, are bulbous

No. LXII., VOL. III.

plants, natives of the Cape of Good Hope, and that they renew their bulbs annually-the old ones dying as soon as they have flowered and produced seeds. It will also be recollected, that those bulbs in their native country endure the scorching rays of an almost vertical sun during many months, being luxuriant on the return of the periodical rains, at which season they spring up as if by magic. Now, although these and similar plants, under the same influences in different

parts of the world, shed their seeds as soon as they are ripe after the rains have ceased, those seeds necessarily remain dormant, like their parent bulbs, until the return of the periodical rains, which give life and vigour to the languishing bulbs, and the power of vegetating to the seeds. Hence our advice to sow these seeds about the time at which the bulbs begin to grow with us, or, in other words, about the end of September. We believe that gardeners have ascertained in practice that if such seeds are sown any time during the summer as soon as they are ripe, they will not vegetate till their natural time in September and October; and we all know that if the sowing is deferred until the next spring the seedlings are overtaken too soon by our summer droughts, and are thus prevented attaining a proper strength before the end of their first growing season. We may notice, also, another peculiarity in the economy of these Cape irids to show how Infinite Wisdom has provided for the preservation of their race. During the dry seasons the earth in those regions where the ixias abound cracks in all directions, owing to the excessive heat baking the surface. On the return of the rains, the whole surface is deluged before the soil is so far moistened as to allow the water to pass through it; seeds are thus swept along rapidly, mingled with sand and dustforming one muddy stream-into those cracks and fissures. There they are deeply imbedded; but from thence they soon vegetate and reach the surface. We are not aware that the greatest depth from which they can issue has been ascertained, but it is well known to gardeners that very small roots of this tribe will vegetate after being accidentally buried, to the depth of two or more feet, during the operation of trenching beds or borders in which they have been growing; and we ourselves have seen the crocus thus buried, and come up in safety. We entertain scarcely a doubt but seeds of these bulbs would vegetate from a considerable depth. We are not to suppose, however, that seedlings or old bulbs thus accidentally buried beyond the depth that is more natural to them could long endure the confinement with impunity; and here a natural contrivance is powerfully exerted every growing season to bring them up to the surface. We have already said that they renew their bulbs annually, and, in doing so, the new bulbs are formed on the top of the old ones, and by this means, in the course of time, the successors of the buried bulbs rise step by step to the surface.

THE FRUIT-GARDEN.

THE VINE OUT-DOORS.-We have received so many inquiries about out-door grapes, that it is evident a great number of our correspondents are much interested in vine culture; and we therefore feel con

strained to offer some more advice on that head; and as we have, when treating the subject before, generally given miscellaneous advice, we will now take the question in its proper order, and begin with the root management, or, in other words,

BORDER MAKING.-By this term, we merely mean making the necessary preparation for the root, whether it be a single vine or a score, for such preparation is always termed "making a border." The main basis on which to proceed is, as we have before said, "the acclimatising principle." Inexperienced persons will naturally ask, "What is acclimatising?" To this we must answer — Enabling a tree from warmer and brighter climes to withstand the vicissitudes of our northern climate; and not only to grow, but to produce its flowers and fruit in perfection.

Now, it must be obvious that we cannot increase the amount of light which falls to our lot; heat we may do something with, by making use of materials (whether as connected with the branches or the roots) which will absorb and retain a portion of the sun's heat for a lengthened period. It is a well-known fact, that this ground warmth, as received from the sun's rays, decreases in amount as we descend from the surface; deep borders, then, is only another phrase for cold roots; and cold roots can by no means be supposed to be favourable to that rapid development of parts to which such tender trees as the vine are subjected in their native clime. Thus much, then, seems to show that deep soils are not favourable to the perfecting of fruit-trees from warmer climates than our own.

Having settled, as we think, the matter of depth, we must next advert to texture in soil-mechanical texture." This was a point too much overlooked in former days, and our improved notions concerning it have arisen, in no small degree, from the practice of the potting bench; for no class of men are more alive to the immense importance of studying the texture of soils than our very best gardeners, who have in their day spent much time in the culture of tender plants, and who are compelled to add whatever amount of science can be rendered available to the soundest of practice and the most lengthened observation. By mechanical texture is meant that constitution of soil which more or less permits percolation, or the free passage of water, and, as a consequence, a corresponding entrance of the atmospheric air; on which latter point almost everything depends, not only in vine culture, but with most plants, aquatics excepted, which are specially constituted to endure very different conditions.

We may here stay to observe, for the benefit of those who have not been used to dabbling in fine phrases, that for the vine out of doors a very porous character of soil should be established. The heavy, and sometimes rather too continuous, character of our rainy periods are apt to overpower the tender spongioles, or mouths of the fibrous roots; and, we need hardly say, that such a consequence is fraught with mischief of some kind to the swelling or ripening grapes. Hence, we hear of grapes "shrivelling," "shanking," going blind," and of many more technichal phrases, which, although not entirely traceable to this root fault, yet, in the main, originate in imperfect root action.

THOROUGH DRAINAGE. The foregoing remarks relate chiefly to the conducting properties of the soil; we come now to consider how superfluous water, after passing through the soil, may be carried

away with speed, certainty, and by means of a permanent character. Very few soils in Britain are so constituted but that the vine would be benefitted by some amount of drainage. This may seem an extreme assertion, but we do not mean that the vine will grow and produce fruit in few soils, but that the drainage here alluded to, in combination with a proper texture of soil, will facilitate the ripening process; which, accelerated even two or three weeks only, will prove a matter of immense importance.

IMPROVEMENT OF STAPLE. - Plenty of loam and manure were, at one period, considered by gardeners as indispensable in vine culture; but the late Mr. Clement Hoare was one of the first to break these trammels, and to show that the vine might be cultivated in almost any ordinary material, or a com bination of them, provided it was thoroughly penetratable by the atmosphere. Thus we find him successful with such materials as charcoal, old plaster, lime rubbish, broken bricks, &c., with scarcely any soil and from this circumstance there can be little doubt that the vine has a capacity to draw a great portion of its nourishment from the atmosphere, provided such can have a constant and free entrance into the soil. We are not of those, however, who would advise the adoption of such maxims in full. Ingenious persons are apt to "ride their hobby too hard; and we consider Mr. Hoare's practice very interesting, as being highly illustrative, and as opening a wider field for vine culture, inasmuch as a portion of the materials used by him will, with proper management, combine with almost any soil that may happen to be on the spot; for the amateur, or cottager, cannot command turfy materials at all times.

Every one must be aware of the tendency in the vine to throw out stem roots in the damp atmosphere of our hothouses; also of the fact that vines have frequently been known to grow out of brick walls. We once knew a case in which the border being exces sively rich, deep, and, of course, stagnant, the vine had attached itself firmly to the wall, and ramified along its surface like some orchidaceous plant to its block of wood, having few or no roots in the border, from which it seemed to turn with a decided disrelish. Again; we once knew a Black Hamburgh vine planted in the bark of the tan-pit where pines had been removed; the pit was all tan, or nearly so, and this Hamburgh proved a splendid tree, bearing profusely first-rate grapes. This was about thirty-five years since, and occurred in a small house at Melrose Hall, then the seat of Daniel Rucker, Esq., at West Hill, Wandsworth, but now, or lately, belonging to his grace the Duke of Sutherland.

Here, then, we have extreme cases; the one vine growing altogether in stones, charcoal, &c., where decomposing animal and vegetable manures would, at first sight, appear to be totally absent; the other, a vine growing entirely in old tan, which was little else. It must be remembered, however, that the same results would not have followed if the tan had been out-doors; it would, in that case, very soon have become so sodden and soured that the air could with difficulty enter, and then good-by to farther success. The heat of the atmosphere in-doors, together with cautious watering, kept the tan always mellow.

MANURES. These we may at once class under two distinct heads, the animal and the mere vegetable manures. We have before said that the vine may be cultivated without them; let us not, however, be understood as recommending their total disuse. In all cases a certain portion is useful if judiciously applied,

and, in many cases, they become particularly necessary. Such a case is when vines become exhausted through over-bearing, or through age; also, when the vine is growing in a very limited space, covering houses in the vicinity of our towns; in which latter case liquid manures, at certain periods, are of much service. The use of manure mixed with the soil of the border depends on the amount of vegetable or other organic matter which the soil contains. Thus a free, sandy, loamy turf, from an old pasture, is complete in itself for vine culture, provided the subsoil of the border is sound. What we would here direct especial attention to in the use of manures is, their application as top-dressing, in combination with a shallow soil; which, as before observed, we regard as forming the foundation principle in the perfecting or ripening of the wood of fruits from hot climates; a principle of so much importance that success can never be attained unless it be carried out.

Ripening the wood, then, signifies that the plant should attain its full maturity (in regard of the leaf) which nature has ordained; that is to say, that the leaf shall have been fully developed, have gone through its due course of elaborations, and have taken its autumnal hue, by the influence of solar heat and light. The sure consequence of this is, that the buds will be plump and firm, and will develop in the ensuing spring with a freshness and freedom unknown to ill-ripened buds. The blossoms will, moreover, set for fruit with more certainty, and the fruit itself swell in a much more perfect manner. Another point is, that the wood of tender fruits, such as the fig, the peach, the vine, &c., will be in a much better position to endure a severe winter.

We have now taken a survey of the general first principles on which successful vine culture may be said to rest, and we propose shortly to enter into a detail of the proceedings necessary in vine-planting and culture. We have written thus much to pave the way to a broad consideration of the question in all its bearings. R. ERRINGTON.

THE FLOWER-GARDEN.

My notes on late flowering plants in the flowergarden ended with those on a beautiful geranium called Lady Mary Fox. The next one I shall mention is Diadematum, which, with another one called Diadematum rubescens, are fully as good and showy in beds as Unique and Lady Mary Fox. These two are very old, and were the first of this class with which I began to make flower-beds in 1842, so that I am comparatively a beginner in this branch of flower gardening; others, whom I could name, having, for more than twenty years, paid more or less attention to them. These Diadematums are dwarf plants, but literally covered with their gay reddish-pink blossoms all the season, and after they are taken up and potted at the end of the season they flower on for a long time, Indeed, of all the hybridperpetual geraniums, these are the last to cease blooming. For this merit, and perhaps a little prejudice in their favour as old acquaintances, they are my own peculiar pets; they are all but barren, yet I make a fresh trial to cross them every season; and once, about three years since, I succeeded in ontaining one seed between Diadematum rubescens and Priory Queen, one of the best late flowering pelargoniums for the open borders we yet possess. pollen of the Priory Queen, one would think, ought to throw strength and stature into an offspring of the

The