dington. 11. For Heaths, from Messrs. Rollissons, of Tooting. 12. For English Piccotees, from Mr. Hogg, of Paddington. 13. For Grapes, from Mr. Turner, Gardener to Byng, Esq, F. H. S. 14. For China Roses, from Mr. Stephen Hooker, F. H. S. 15. For miscellaneous Roses, from William Harrison, Esq., F. H. S. 16. For Cockscombs, from Mr. Falconer, Gardener to Archdale Palmer, Esq. 17. For Orchideous Plant, from Messrs. Rollissons, of toothing. 18. For Balsams, from Mr. John Green, Gardener to Sir Edmond Antrobus, Bart., F. H. S. 19. For Elichrysum, sp. from Robert Mangles, Esq. F. H. S.

THE SILVER BANKSIAN MEDAL.-1. For Heartsease, from Mr. Wilmer, of Sunbury. 2. For Peaches and Nectarines, from Mr. Bradley, Gardener to the Earl of Arran, F. H. S. 3. For Cucumbers, from Mr. Seward Snow, Gardener to John Horsely Palmer, Esq., F, H. S. 4. For Currants, from Mr. John Wilmot, of Isleworth, F. H. S. 5. For Black Hamburgh Grapes, from Mr. R. Clews, of Action, F. H. S. 6. For Grapes, from Mr. Andrews, Gardener to R. Patterson, Esq,, of Blackheath. 7. For Bigarreau Cherries, from Mr. Jarvis, of Turnham Green. 8. For Melons, from Mr. Davis, Gardener to Strange, Esq., Upton, Essex. 9. For Perpetual Roses, from Mr. Rivers, of Sawbridgeworth. 10. For Roses, from Mr. Wilmer, of Sunbury. 11. For Piccotees, from Mr. Wilmer, of Sunbury. 12. For Pelargoniums, from Mr. Gaines, Surry Lane, Battersea. 13. For Balsams, Cockscombs and Dahlias, from Mr. William Cock, of Chiswick. 14. For a miscellaneous collection of plants from Mr. Redding, Gardener to Mrs. Marryat,

F. H. S.

ARTICLE III.

OPERATIONS IN THE FRUIT DEPARTMENT FOR SEPTEMBER.

Apple Trees. Since the various species of caterpillars mentioned last month, page 341, go into the pupa state towards the end; our readers should follow the directions there given, any time before the middle of the month.

Buds put in during last month and July will require their bandages loosening.

Cherry Trees. If they are infested with insects, follow the direc tions given last month. The morellas will require netting, to preserve the fruit from birds. Those in pots for forcing, if the wood be ripe, should be placed under a north wall.

Figs on the open walls being now ripe, refrain from watering till the fruit is gathered; those in pots must still be supplied with water. Gooseberry Trees infested with caterpillars, now the fruit is gathered, should be treated as recommended last month.

Peach and Nectarine Trees.-The fruit being now ripe, although infested with the red spider or other insects, all operations must be suspended, until after the fruit is gathered. They may then be treated as recommended page 342; repeating it two or three times. Treat those in pots in the same manner as recommended for cherries. Pear Trees, if infested with the slimy larvæ, dust on a dry day with quick lime, and, in a few days afterwards, wash the trees clean by means of a liquid. This must be done before the fruit begins to ripen.

Plum Trees, infested with the Aphis, as soon as the fruit is gathered, use the mixture recommended page 342. The best time to apply it, is the first thing in the morning, and late in the afternoon.

Raspberries, if troubled with the Aphides, wash with some soap suds and tobacco-water, in the proportions of one gallon of the latter to four of the former.

Strawberries in Pots keep free from runners; and plant new beds in good strong loam.

Vines in Pots being now brought into the vinery, will ripen their fruit at the end of January.

VEGETABLE DEPARTMENT.

Broccoli sown last month should be transplanted out to produce heads next April and May.

Carrots sown last month should be properly thinned out, and a little more seed sown in the beginning.

Cauliflower Plants will be ready to prick out towards the end of the month, for sheltering in frames; the reader may also pot a score or two in sixty-sized pots and plunge them in the same frame.

Cabbage Plants should be planted out early in the month, in rows twelve inches apart, and six inches from plant to plant. Prick out in beds those sown last month.

Celery will require earthing up as it advances in growth.
Endive may be planted out two or three times in the month.

Herbs fit for cutting should be gathered in fine weather.

Lettuces should be planted out for use in October. Sow seed three times during the month, for preserving through the winter. Mushroom Beds should now be generally made. Normandy Cress should be sown early in the month.

Welsh Onions if not sown in August, should be sown as speedily as possible.

ARTICLE IV.-A FURTHER EXPERIMENT ON HEATING HOTHOUSES WITH HOT-WATER.

BY MR. SAUL, SULYARD-STREET, LANCASTER.

IN page 136, of your Magazine of Botany, you have given a plate of my hot-water apparatus, and you state that you will resume the subject shortly. Having made another experiment by removing the two pipes (8, 8,) as shown in the Horticultural Register Vol. 1, page 586, and fixed one pipe eighteen inches long, and four and a half inches diameter, inside measure, see fig. 26 (b). I enlarged the fire place (a) and made the grate flat, as (e), and to my great astonishment, I was never able to obtain one half the heat, although I had increased the size of my fire-place so much.

It is therefore, quite clear, that small tubes or pipes placed in the same way, as in Vol 1, page 586, and page 136 of your Magazine of Botany, are far better than one larger pipe, as fig. 26 (b). Also it is a great advantage for the grate (b), to be on an inclined plane, and not level as (c).

Conscious of this, I have removed the pipe (b), and replaced the two pipes, also the inclined plane, and by this means, I am able to obtain the heat you named in my former papers on the subject. It is by small tubes, that the engines on the railways, obtain their great heat, and I believe that small pipes will answer better than large boilers for heating hot-houses, because of the little time required to procure the heat.

FLORICULTURE.

ARTICLE V.-CULTURE OF AZALEAS.

ALL tender Azaleas require one general mode of treatment as follows:

Pot them as soon as they have done flowering, which will be about the end of May, except those intended to be left for seed, which must remain until they have ripened their seed.

Use a mixture of equal parts of sandy loam and peat, with a small portion of leaf mould, in preference to all peat; and be careful in potting to give a good drainage of broken potsherds; for although they delight in moisture, stagnant water usually proves injurious to them.

About the middle of June, place them in a somewhat sheltered and shady situation, out of doors.

Allow them to stand in this situation till September, then remove them into a pit or greenhouse, in any airy situation, until they are wanted for flowering.

It is a great assistance to them, when about expanding their flowers, to remove them into an increased temperature; this should be from sixty to sixty-five degrees Fahrenheit, and the plants may be introduced about the middle or end of September, which will come into flower towards the end of October, and will continue blooming till December; others brought in the middle of October will continue flowering till January; those brought in the end of November will continue flowering till February, when those in the pit or greenhouse will commence flowering, and continue till May.

When they are in flower, a good supply of water is requisite, to enable the plants to support them; any deficiency in this respect will cause the flowers speedily to fall.

When they have done flowering, assist them by every means to make young wood, a good supply of which must be secured before they are removed from the increased heat. For this purpose, syringe them about once or twice a week, and after they have grown considerably, remove them to the greenhouse, previous to their being turned out of doors, and treat them like other greenhouse plants, merely giving them a good supply of air and water.

When the young shoots are from four to six inches long, they are best calculated for cuttings. Take them off after the plants are removed to the greenhouse; separate each cutting close to the old wood from whence they start, trim off no leaves but those which grow on

that part intended to be inserted in the pot. They must be planted in either sand or light soil, the former is the best; plunge the pots in a little heat, and place a hand-glass over them, and in the course of a fortnight or three weeks they will strike root.

When they have struck root, transplant with balls into single pots, filled with the compost recommended for the old plants, and again plunge them in a little heat until they have begun to grow, after which they may be removed to the greenhouse, and be treated like other greenhouse plants.

Many of the greenhouse species and varieties will bear a good degree of cold, and will thrive very well if planted under the wall of a stove, greenhouse, or other warm situation; but in winter they must be sheltered by mats from the effects of frost. The Indica Phoenicea flowers most beautifully, when planted out in the border of a conservatory; it will there grow from four to six feet high, with a good supply of water, and slight shade.

Hardy species and varieties require little care; they may either be grown on a bed or otherwise to suit the fancy of the cultivator. Always select for them a situation somewhat shady and rather damp, but by no means one where water stagnates, unless a good drainage be laid underneath.

In all dry summers a good supply of water is advantageous, though not indispensable; but plants so treated always thrive more than under other circumstances.

Some of the species produce abundance of seed, which may be sown in pans or pots as soon as gathered; place them in a shady situation, and keep them rather moist, until they vegetate.

As soon as they are of a sufficient size, transplant them into other pots, and place them under a glass, and let them be slightly shaded until they have again started. Then expose them by degrees, until they are hardy enough to be planted out.

The hardy species and varieties are also readily propagated by layers and cuttings. The branches in layering merely require pegging down without any tongue, and a regular supply of moisture administered. The cuttings may be taken off precisely in the same manner as recommended for the greenhouse species and varieties; but, instead of planting in pots, they may be planted under a hand-glass, on a shady border.

The Azalea is scarcely separable from Rhododendron, with regard to the number of stamens, some seedlings raised from Azaleas having only five stamens, have themselves possessed ten, and even more, whilst seedlings raised from Rhodedendrons have had less than ten