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were in the new town, and nearly opposite, and I would gladly have now paused to enjoy it, had I not remembered that the suremons of a coach-guard was urgent and imperative. I soon took my seat, and the deafening tones of the horn which he immediately commenced blowing, as the coach drove rapidly along Prince's street, quickly drowned every finer feeling which the inspiring note of the bugle was just awakening.
We left Edinburgh by St. Cuthbert's: the road soon passing between the Corstorphine hills on the right, and further on, the Pentlands on the left. Our route to Glasgow laid through Midcalder and Whitburn. The country during the latter part of the way was far from being inviting: in a few places indeed it was rather dreary. The Lothians however, round Edinburgh, are very fertile districts, and under high cultivation. The Lothian farmers are inferior to none in Great Britain. Three miles from Edinburgh the freestone walls by the sides of the way ceased, and hedgerows commenced. The hawthorn, in many spots, was quite verdant for the season; in some, almost in full leaf. Gooseberries were still more forward. The peasantry were busily employed in the fields, either ploughing, or otherwise preparing them for planting. Corn, or rather grain, they finished sowing, in this part of Scotland, ten days or a fortnight ago. Many of their lands were thrown up into long narrow ridges or swells. These present a good appearance, and are a proper precaution in a humid climate to ad. mit the passage of rain along the intervening furrows. We noticed some women engaged in the open fields in various hardy occupations, and thought that they managed the implements of husbandry with as much effect as the men. The latter wore generally a large blue woolen сар, , flattened
upon the head, and slouched over the eyes. This was the lowland bonnet, and a very unbecoming one it is. The cottages were chiefly thatched for the first half of the way, after which tiled roofs made their appearance, and increased in number as we approached Glasgow. Five or six miles from that city a stream was descried at some distance on the left, apparently about twenty or thirty yards wide. “Is that the Clyde?" inquired I of a fellow passenger. He replied that it was; and I looked again, but was still disappointed. It appeared a pretty, and on the whole a respectable stream, compared with some other Scotch rivers, but nothing better. The Clyde, however, accompanied us but a little way, when it took another direction and disappeared.
T'he entrance into Glasgow by the Gallowgate, is far from being fine. We passed a number of manufacturing establishments;indeed I should have known at once that I was in a manufacturing town, from the towering conical chimnies, the smoke, and other well-known accompaniments. Trongate-street looked very well, we drove through it, and, entering Argyle-street, were soon set down at the door of an inn where half a dozen waiters and por. ters stood ready to assist us in alighting, and in getting our lug. gage from the coach. But we had no disposition to stop there, and accordingly sent our portmanteaus to the Buck's Head, an inn which had been recommended to us as preferable. We arrived too late to present letters, or make calls, but have taken an hasty walk through some of the principal streets. It is now 4, P. M. I have been writing with as much rapidity as my pen can move over the paper. Dinner is in readiness, and I must desist from the double motive of dearth of matter and the desire of attending to the call of the former. One difference which I perceive between this city and Edinburgh is the hour of dining, which here is four, and at Edinburgh five.
April 12th. My companion, who has been in this city before, was walking out last evening after dinner, when he accidentally met Mr. B. one of his Glasgow friends, and to whose family I was the bearer of an introductory letter. The gentleman returned with him to our lodgings, and gave a cordial invitation to tea, which we had no reluctance in accepting. My letter was presented to the family, and engaged every attention which the distinguished character of the lady from whom I had received it had authorized me to anticipate. My new friends I found highly agreeable; two or three of their city acquaintance called in acci. dentally, and the evening glided imperceptibly away in animated conversation, till a late hour.
To day we have been engaged in presenting letters, all of which have been duly honoured, and in inspecting
a few of the objects most worthy of attention in this great city. We were taken to the Tontine reading room, which we found well supplied with newspapers, and other periodical publications. The annual subscrip. tion, thirty-five shillings sterling, was thought large. Letters which we brought to the Professors of Natural History and of Humanity in the University, gave us an opportunity of visiting very satisfactorily the interior of that seat of science. A part of our observations, however, we were obliged to defer till another day. The college buildings form two large quadrangles with spacious areas. The side towards the street through which is the main entrance, is extensive, but has a very heavy and gloomy appearance. The larger hall of the library is a fine specimen of the Ionic. The whole number of volumes is estimated at twenty-five thousand, among which are many that are highly prized. A beautiful MS. copy of the Vulgate, brilliantly illuminated, was shown. Although executed more than five centuries ago, it retains its colourings unimpaired. Several paintings, however, at the commencement of the Book of Genesis,—though they illustrate the quaintness and spirit of the times,-might have been spared, without fear of of fending a fastidious eye. One, which could not easily be forgotten, represents mother Eve just springing from the side of Adam, and standing with unblushing indifference in puris naturalibus.' We saw also the autograph of the famous doggerel version of the Bible, by the eccentric Zachary Boyd. This singular man left a large property to the college on condition that they should publish his work. They complied with the condition, I understand, only so far as to print a part of the manuscript, which was a portion of the Psalms, if I remember correctly, but so managed as to secure the donation entire. Boyd is represented to have been exemplary in his private character; and withal, shrewd and clever. The manuscript is very indistinct; to me almost illegible. Professor M. who had often consulted it, read several choice extracts which were very
ludicrous. I cannot remember them all, nor should I repeat them here if I did. The two following couplets may be considered as illustrative of the merit of the work in a poetical view.
* Was'nt Pharoah a rascal
[ones and flocks to go out into the wilderness to eat the Paschal. · Said Mrs. Job to Mr. Job, curse God and die,
Said Mr. Job to Mrs. Job, No, you jade, not I.' From the library we were conducted into the Fore Hall,' a large room in which we found all the recent English publications. The University of Glasgow, in common with those of Edinburgh, St. Andrews, and Aberdeen, and the Advocates' library also at Edinburgh, enjoys a title to a copy of every work which is entered at Stationers' Hall. This is the share of a common privilege, secured by act of parliament to several other learned institutions in great Britain, which goes to Scotland, and a pretty large one it is too, amounting, if I mistake not, to five-elevenths of the whole grant. This receiving-room at Glasgow may therefore be consid. ered as a kind of librometer, showing the number of new books annually entered at Stationers' Hall, and affording data whence to calculate the whole amount issued from the press. It is found that those which come to hand average about thirty a month:-—and the whole number annually published may be estimated at five hundred. There are a few good paintings in this Hall, among which is a highly finished portrait of the present earl of Buchan, taken when lord Cardross, and precisely similar to one which ornaments the breakfast-room in his lordship’s town-house in Edinburgh.
* I do not assert that the first of these extracts is really in Boyd's version. I simply say that it denotes the poetic character of the production. To prove, bow. ever, that I have not traduced, designedly, the merits of this “sweet singer,' I here subjoin a few lines, which, with some other specimens, were actually seen, They are extracted from Jonah's comforting soliloquy in the whale's belly.
• What house is this?--Here's neither coal por candle;
In the course of the forenoon we walked upon the green meadows along Clydesdale, a little retired from the busy stir of the city, and admired the noble monument erected to the memory of Nelson. It is an obelisk one hundred and thirty feet in height, finely proportioned, and reflects great honour upon the taste and munificence of the people of Glasgow. It would be a beautiful work but for a disaster which has somewhat disfigured its appearance. A year or two after its erection, which was about 1808, the top was struck with lightening, and was much fractured. A large fissure was cleft between the stones, several of them weighing from five hundred to one thousand pounds were protruded so far out as to seem in momentary danger of being precipitated below, although none even to this day have been entirely dislodged. A clumsy wooden fence surrounds the base of this column, which the inhabitants of Glasgow would long ere this have superseded by a suitable iron balustrade but for the expectation of the speedy fall of the impending masses of stone from above. The rent is visibly widening each year by the action of frost and other natural causes, and is giving dreadful presage of an approaching final disruption. And yet we saw the poorer classes of females, for whose accommodation a large and commodious wash-house has been erected in this vicinity, unconcernedly employed within a few yards of the monument, and in one or two instances, spreading their clothes for drying within a couple of rods of its base.
At the hour of dining we went to North Wood-side,' a delightful country residence about two miles from Glasgow, the property of an opulent merchant. It is situated upon the Kelvin, a tributàry stream of the Clyde, and, together with its grounds, exhibits striking evidences of the elegant but costly taste of its proprietor. The gentleman* had been in America, and was not a little attached to its form of government,-a partiality which naturally extended itself to the individuals concerned in its administration; and accordingly we were gratified with beholding the portraits of several of our most distinguished countrymen adorning the walls of his apartments. The afternoon passed highly to our satisfaction; and we would gladly have accepted an invitation, which was given with a sincerity which could not be mistaken, to protract our visit beyond the day, but for engagements which required our return to Glasgow. After coffee we left North Wood-side, and reached the city in season to sup at the Rev. Dr. Chalmers.
It had been my good fortune to meet, and become partially acquainted with this extraordinary man in Edinburgh. He had politely invited me to visit him in Glasgow, and this morning I called at his house and passed an half hour with him. I found him then much engaged in completing some preparations for a journey to London which he is to commence on Monday. He desired my company at supper in the evening, and extended the invitation to my companion. We found a few friends at his house, among whom were several ladies.. Mrs. C. possesses a pleasing person, and engaging manners, and performed the honours of the table with great propriety. Dr. C. had finished the necessary arrangements for his journey, and entered freely into an animated and instructive conversation. His colloquial powers are of an high order. Even in familiar conversation, he is impressive and striking;
* The writer of these notices has since had the satisfaction to receive this gentlemen under his paternal roof:a fortunate circumstance having once more brought him to America.
although he seems not to be ambitious of display, or the distinction of taking a lead.--He is at home upon most of the popular topics of the day. In discussing any of interest, he engages totus in illis. His thoughts in that case are rapid, and his remarks,--assuming the complexion of his fervid mind,--abound in glowing, but easy illustrations. He spoke very feelingly upon the subject of the English poor laws, and the alarming increase of mendicity in Scotland. As an instance of the unnatural state of things in Glasgow itself, he referred to the sum of 14000l. sterling which in less than a month had been raised by subscription in this single city, for the relief of the poorer classes. To the honour however of the wealthy population of Glasgow, it should be added, that the monies thus contributed, have been more than enough, with other private beneface tions, to supply the present need; and the surplusage has been funded to meet some future, and I hope, very distant exigency.
Conversation at table turned upon that dark and malignant spirit of infidelity, which under various forms, seems insidiously stealing like a pestilence throughout society. Dr. C.'s remarks upon this subject were very eloquent, both in commenting upon the different masks which it assumes and the coverts wherein it lurks, and in sug. gesting some seemingly effectual checks to the prevalence of this tremendous evil. The inquiries of Dr. C. relative to America, as well now as during a former interview, indicated no small degree of attention which he has paid to its civil and religious institutions. He spoke in terms of great commendation of the writings of the late Jonathan Edwards, and pronounced them to be among the ablest in English theology. In metaphysics, he considers Edwards to have equalled the deepest thinkers of his age. The
supper at Dr. C.'s was liberally and tastefully provided. Im. mediately after its removal, and before the wine was placed upon the table, the service of evening devotion was introduced. It was simple but engaging; consisting
of a portion of scripture which was read with great solemnity, and a prayer, during which all the company kneeled, as is usual in family devotions throughout this country. The servants were present. It was nearly twelve o'clock when we took leave of Dr. C. A very friendly request which he made that I would visit him hereafter in Glasgow, I fear that I shall never have it in my power to comply with.
Glasgow, 14th April.-Yesterday I had the satisfaction to hear Dr. Chalmers once more preach. It was generally understood that it would be the last time that he would officiate in Glasgow for two