112 AND VISITS A PRIVATE FAMILY.

their own gate, who, by their appearance, he supposed to be Friends. He immediately ordered the driver to stop, alighted, inquired if they were of the people called Quakers, and, being answered in the affirmative, asked permission to go into the house. The request, although considered exceedingly strange and unaccountable, for these parties had not heard anything of the Emperor's interest in Friends, was of course cheerfully complied with. The Duchess then alighted, and they all went in together. After a little time, the Duchess asked if they might go over the house, and they were accordingly conducted into the principal apartments, the neatness of which they praised. On returning to the parlour, they were invited to take some refreshments, which they did, and seemed pleased with the attention. Finding that the family had not heard of the Emperor having had any communication with Friends' in London, he gave them an account of his having been 'at meeting. At parting, the Emperor saluted the hand of the lady, and the Duchess kissed her. They then both shook hands cordially with her husband (Nathaniel Rickman), and bade them' farewell.'

In 1818, Mr. Allen was recognised as an approved minister among Friends, and in that character he visited the families of his district. On Thursday, the 11th of May,

MR. ALLEN A TRAVELLER.

113

1820, in solemn conference,' he was 'discharged from the office of elder,' and 'recorded as a minister in unity.' It was as a minister, and under religious concern,' that he subsequently undertook his various and important journeys.

The first journey, undertaken in 1816, was in some respects an exception to the statement we have made, inasmuch as on this occasion he seems to have travelled chiefly in the capacity of 'care-taker' to some women friends, whose concern' the journey properly was. They crossed to Calais, and then proceeded through Belgium and Holland to Pyrmont, Hesse Cassell, Frankfort, Strasburg, and Basle; everywhere inspecting prisons, schools, and public institutions generally.

Fellenberg, whom they saw at Hoffwyll, is described as a man whose countenance and manner strikingly indicates great mental power, openness of character, and benignity.' Soon afterwards they visited Pestalozzi. The lively old man,' says Mr. Allen, saluted me with two kisses, one on each cheek. He is rather below the middle stature, and thin. A spirit of harmony seemed to pervade the whole establishment. I was much pleased.'

At Geneva, Mr. Allen was again plunged in sorrow, by the decease of his second wife, Charlotte Hanbury, to whom he was affec

114 HE TAKES NORTHERN EUROPE.

tionately attached. She was interred in the cemetery at Sacconet, and soon after the party returned home.

The second and most important journey occupied him from August, 1818, to February, 1820, and embraced Northern Europe, with some portions of Turkey, Greece, and Malta.

Accompanied by his friend, Stephen Grellet,* Mr. Allen sailed from Harwich, on the 15th of August, for Stavanger, in Norway. On the 25th they were approaching the coast, and ranges of high and rugged rocks, one beyond the other, presented themselves. Here they landed, and established 'a system of discipline' among some of the inhabitants who recognise the religious principles of the Society of Friends.

The voyage to Christiansand was very tedious: the wind boisterous and contrary, the country a picture of desolation.' The land journey to Christiana was arduous and fatiguing, sometimes beaten by the roads,' six horses could not force along the carriage. On one occasion men and horses are alike 'used up,' obliged to pass the night by the roadside, the face of the country resembling waves; in fact, huge masses of rock from two hundred to five hundred feet high, mostly

An eminent minister of the Society of Friends; a native of France, but resident at Burlington, United States.

VISITS THE KING OF SWEDEN. 115

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covered with pines, and in constant succession.' Finally, the roads improve,' and the country becomes beautiful, resembling Switzerland.'

Proceeding to Stockholm, the two Friends had an interview with the King of Sweden, to whom they presented an address on prison discipline, education, the management of the poor, and religious liberty. They were afterwards admitted to a private conference, and in about an hour obtained all the privileges they wished for Friends' in Norway and Sweden. The King was most kind and cordial. While I was holding his hand, to take leave,' says Mr. Allen, in the love which I felt for him, I expressed my desire that the Lord would bless and preserve him. It seemed to go to his heart, and he presented his cheek for me to kiss, first one, then the other; he took the same leave of Stephen and Enoch (a Norwegian), and commended himself to our prayers.'

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Soon after this interview they embarked for Finland. The prison at Abo was found in sad condition, and notes were made which led to the speedy removal of the evils complained of. While at Abo, they dined with a large party at the archbishop's. At the 'pause' after dinner, Grellet gave a religious address, and they separated under a mutual feeling of regard and esteem.

116

ARRIVES AT ST. PETERSBURG,

On the 12th of November, the travellers arrived at the outposts of Petersburg, the snow everywhere on the ground, and the roads rough. Here they found Walter Venning, Dr. Paterson, and many other friends, to cheer and welcome them.

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Their first formal visit (the Emperor being absent) was to Prince Alexander Galitzin; then to Lord Cathcart; and afterwards to the Princess Sophia Mestchersky. Everybody received them gladly. The Lord set before them an open door.' Mr. Allen describes his visits to the Princess Sophia as visits to 'a sister and dear Christian friend.' She conversed without the least restraint on religious subjects, and gave evidence of true piety and deep understanding. The following description is given of the interior of her palace, in the depth of Russian winter:

'The large room has a very lofty ceiling, and is just like a shrubbery. There are some fine tall trees in boxes, and very pretty trelliswork, covered with a beautiful creeper from New Holland; the plants are all evergreens, and in a healthy, flourishing state; among them are cages of singing birds, some of which are of magnificent plumage; and there was one elegant pair of Indian sparrows. Their stoves, and their universal system of double windows, keep up a uniform and very agreeable temperature throughout all the apart