Page images
PDF
EPUB

increased difficulty. The wind was in such a direction that the water was blown against us in great quantities. It was not now by the spray, but by the drops which fell loosely at the edge of the sheet, that we were wet. I do not think that so much water ever falls in a shower as descended around us. We were instantly upon reaching it drenched as though we had waded into the river. We saw near us the dark and terrific cavern between the sheet of the cataract and the rock behind. The wind is said always to rush from it with great force. It was now more strong than usual, and drove the rain upon us with great violence; but we endeavoured notwithstanding to get behind the falling sheet of water. Our uncomfortable situation, and the force we had to oppose, compelled us to retire, that we might gain strength and resolution for a new attempt. The second time we advanced further, till we were almost prevented from breathing by a torrent of wind and rain more powerful than I had ever opposed. By such resistance, our difficulty in standing was increased. We were upon the steep side of an immense heap of loose, slippery, and sharp stones, which were washed at the bottom by a flood, to have fallen into which would have been certain destruction; and the chillness and fatigue again exhausted us. But we had not yet attained our object; and I thought the necessary labor would be repayed by the remembrance of our situation. We went forward a third time, prepared for what we had to resist, and I was certain of being between the sheet of the cataract and the rock. We went hand in hand, and it was not timidity or weakness that made us desist. At a time when there was less wind, the same exertion would doubtless have carried us further. There is perhaps a cavity throughout the whole extent of the sheet; but human strength could not support a continuance in it for many minutes. When you look at it without, you see it filled with the rebounding water whirling in every direction. When within, your senses are overwhelmed, your strength

overpowered, and resolution is in vain. I am glad I went as far as I could both because it is pusillanimous to desist from an attempt at what has been performed by others, and thus debilitating to the mind; and because it is well to have been in all situations which excite strong feelings or require much energy, that we may test our strength, and be confident in our powers. We were certainly as expeditious as possible in retracing our difficult steps, and changing our wet clothes. We secured ourselves from taking cold, by copious draughts which had no unpleasant influence upon us, so great was our fatigue. No effect remained but a want of repose, and a great degree of soreness, which I felt in consequence of my falls and bruises. This was not diminished by sleeping on the floor with only a thin bed upon it. To this I was compelled by the arrival of Mr. for whose convenience we willingly relinquished better lodgings. I have said nothing of the noise of the cataract, and it is because it was so little an object of my immediate attention during the moments I have been describing. As it increased upon us at our approach so gradually, we were at no time particularly affected by it. When on Table Rock, we talked without difficulty. When we were not near the falls, we were unconscious of the sound, unless our attention was called to it. The time when it was most powerful was while we were below; but then we thought but little of it; although much of the effect produced upon us was no doubt owing to it. Except when we were nearest to the sheet of water, we could always hear each other speak; and the greater loudness of voice which was necessary was not thought of.

The next day, Mr. returned to Buffalo, and intending to take a more leisurely survey of the falls, I went to Table Rock with Mr. and his family, where we remained an hour. The brightness of the light was painful to my eyes, and prevented my observing with that steadiness of attention

which is requisite to the perception of all the beauties of this awful scene; but I saw the great outlines of the noblest picture that nature displays, to elevate the soul of man, and produce in him reverence for the Creator of all things.

When upon Table Rock, I stood so that I could reach the edge of the water as it moved to the precipice. On my right hand, I could see the river to a considerable distance where it was smooth and undisturbed, and spread into a broad and noble expanse; and I could see it advancing toward the place of its principal descent in agitated rapids, which seemed to rage in pride and anger, and with their savage and hostile aspect to threaten the beholder, although impotent to injure him. From this rugged bed the torrent pours in what is called the Horse-shoe falls, from their incurvated form. These are bounded on one side by Table Rock, and on the other by a small island which separates them from the smaller falls. The latter are one uniform sheet of foaming water, descending over a ledge, which makes a large angle with the eastern bank of the river. A straight line drawn from this angle, will extend over the water descending over the little falls, along the perpendicular precipice which bounds the separating island, and will not terminate till it has crossed a considerable part of the sheet of water belonging to the Horseshoe falls, which bend at the distance of about a third part of their whole breadth from the island, in an acute angle toward Table Rock. The outline of the whole would therefore be represented by a fish-hook; so that when on Table Rock, I was at its point, opposite to me was the southern end of Goat island, at my right hand the angular and irregular incurvation called the Horse-shoe falls, and on my left the even and beautiful sheet called the Little Falls. When I speak of a sheet of water descending in these places, I am not strictly correct, for the water falls in columns, which indeed are a sheet in appearance when at a distance, and are connected, but do not

present an even surface. It is not possible to describe the splendid appearance of these foaming columns or the immense cloud of white spray which, encircled with rainbow garlands, rises from the place where they are received into the bed of the river, or the milky turbulence of the stream not yet recovered from its violent concussion; and could I invent a description, that should be worthy of the subject, could I mimic by the noblest language the greatness and beauty of the scene, and excite expectations higher than nature can fulfil, yet the life of reality would be wanting, and the description would be utterly inadequate to produce the impressions which delight the actual beholder.

The view of the falls from the shore below the ladder is in some respects a better one than that from the upper bank: for a better idea of the height of the cataract may thus be formed; but the view from Table Rock has this great superiority, that it includes a prospect of the river during its agitated course previous to its arrival at the precipice. But notwithstanding the water is so much troubled by these rapids, part of it when falling is, for a small part of the descent, free from any appearance of foam, and is of a deep sea-green colour, thus being contrasted with the perfect whiteness of the rest. I was not able to discover whether there were any rapids above the lesser falls. Their appearance is uniformly white, and the descent perpendicular and even, till they reach a heap of huge rocks which have fallen from above. The force with which the water falls must render the channel of the stream below very deep. I was told that at Queenstown where the falls formerly were, it is four hundred feet to the bottom. I presume that the excavation of the rock behind the sheet of the Horse-shoe falls, is caused by the dashing of the water returning back when it reaches the bottom.

There is one remarkable effect of the cataract which remains to be noticed. It is the shaking of the earth. I per

ceived this most sensibly when leaning against the partition of the house. It was such a motion as would be produced in a mill by the machinery when in operation.

Voyage on Lake Ontario and down the St. Lawrence.

(Extracts from a letter.)

Lake Ontario, June 17.

-I AM becalmed on Lake Ontario, after a most dilatory progress for three nights and one day. Yes, three nights and one day-for the first 36 hours in which I was on board were spent in my birth, where all was night to me. It was not so much from sickness as the apprehension of it***** To day the weather has been fine, but I have been most perfectly listless, and have spent my time in lolling on the flour barrels with which the deck is covered, and reading Spencer, with which I am just as much, and in the same way, interested as you told me I should be.*****

Brownville, June 18.

How strange have been the adventures of to day! I wrote to you last night in the close cabin of the little vessel in which I was sailing, when my only fellow traveller, (an Irish gentleman, well-informed, much-travelled, and polite, whom I fortunately met with at Queenstown,) was asleep in his birth; and after I myself had crept into my corner, I laid awake an hour, thinking of my studies, and the pursuits of home, as if I had been engaged in my domestic employments -but now I am-I will tell you where when I come to that part of my story. I laid in bed as long as I could; for the long days are very tedious on board ship; and after rising made some most excellent chocolate; and then as we had a good wind was quite contented, and lolled on my barrel couches, and read Spencer, and gazed on the shores of the

« PreviousContinue »