on the side of a deep valley, through which the Teverone flows, and through the vista formed by the opposing bank, you embrace not only the rainbow colouring, but the fine line of the Campagna, and the dome of St. Peter's. On the right, we were shewn the ruins of the villa of Catullus, and further on, the remains of the country-house of Horace, which was, however, according to the more erudite, five miles off. This is, indeed, a country subject to earthquakes, and Sir W. Hamilton tells us that he saw, in the eruption of 1789, cottages change places as partners in a dance. At any rate we were amused, and we were enjoying the reality of a fine hilly ride, amidst noble trees and choice olives, the oil of which is said to be superlative. Nothing can be more various than the appearance of the olive; sometimes a mere pollard, sometimes hanging drooping, with all the elegance of the birch. The olea Europea is the species we constantly saw about Rome and Naples: it is evergreen, the corolla is funnel shaped, white, and very much like the flower of phillyrea; stamens two; the leaves are dark green above, pale beneath, lanceolate, and entire. It is not indigenous here, bet came from the region of original peace and blessing, Asia; and it is impossible, on such a mount as this, a very mount of olives, not to revert to that at Jerusalem: indeed, this plant of peace was, even by the pagans, thought the gift of wisdom-shall we forget to praise ? The cicerone pointed out the places on the opposite bank where the Cascatelles had flowed: these were easily seen, as wherever the waters had passed they left a concretion, which now remains drooping in a very curious manner -the form, running water-the substance, stone. "Vuol' lei entrare," said the boy, as we passed a church, “la santà Vergine di Quintiolo' was found here under the foundations of the house of Quintilius Varus !!!" and he pointed to ruined walls. I know not how it happened, but we did not think it worth while to get off our horses; and in this thoughtless way have missed several pictures, painted, according to tradition, by that eminent artist," the Evangelist St. Luke." We were now proceeding along the brow of Mons Lucritilus, looking down upon the ancient Anio, and a scene of exquisite vegetation, rocks, and ruins. Well might a poet have chosen such a spot! We sat down, to spend a quiet hour: the ground was covered with the beautiful blue pimpernel, every part of which is most curious; the flower larger than those we usually see. I think I found both species-the "anagallis cerulea," and the "anagallis monelli," upright, with leaves undivided, and erect stem, producing a number of fine flowers: the corolla is wheelshaped; it is pentandria monogynia, and we found it thus in bloom in April: also that beautiful wind flower, the anemone pratensis, named here pulsatilla, added her embroidery with the anemone Apennina, the latter of a fine purplish blue. We hardly knew how to spare our eyes from the ground; but having refreshed them with the verdant and varied tints of spring, we descended by a rough path, so steep that we could hardly keep our footing, to a little brook called Aquaria, over a very old bridge, to the Teverone; and then reaching a second, we had a sweet view up the valley. We now began our ascent of the opposite hill, up the old Valerian way, upon the huge pentagonal blocks, to the villa of Mecanas. The ruins of this villa spread on each side the road; those on the brow, next the Teverone, are very picturesque, exhibiting fine arches 142 GROTTA DI NETTUNO. and columns of the Doric order, commanding the Campagna, and softened by wood and water. On the extremity of a point, in the midst of a vineyard, is a circular building, named " Il tempio della Toux*" The whole is a sort of Arcadia compared with the bare volcanic soil of Rome; and as we rode on, we were much amused by the curious remarks of our little cicerone. Passing through the Roman gate, we saw the remains of the Villa d'Este, where once Ariosto indulged the luxuriance of his wild fancy; and then once more entered our inn, after feeling pretty strongly that fine scenes may exhaust, but cannot support nature. General Miaulis, during his seven years' stay in Rome, caused, amongst very many other convenient and delightful improvements, a path to be made down to the Grotta di Nettuno, where the waters of the Teverone have a natural fall, and work their way, and press, with a surprising force, through a small aperture; and then rising to the top of the surrounding rocks with an astounding noise, in dusty foam, fall again into the deep valley below, where they have, in this curious concretion of their own creation, formed caverns and arches, across which the light plays in beautiful variety, while the waters break and foam on the points of the crags, and cover with their spray the drenched but delighted spectator. Beneath this grotto Mr. Brown unhappily perished: he, his brother and his valet, with the little cicerone who attended us, were the party present. There is a tempting Siren cave beyond the grotto, where afar you see the foam dashing and playing wild music. Mr. Brown endeavoured to reach the spot, creeping round the base of the rock of the grotto from stone to stone, to watch * Certainly a modern divinity. TIBURTINE MARBLE. 143 and to behold the more secret sports of this wild cataract. The stones are slippery in the extreme: from an unguarded step he sunk into the deep pool-rose for a momentappeared stupified. His brother threw in his coat, but he was too much exhausted to hold it; and this agonised brother, after beholding him contending with the furious eddying waters and slippery rocks for a quarter of an hour, saw him sink into a watery grave. After four days his body rose, and it now lies in the Protestant burying-ground at Rome. This was a sad fact to have poured into one's ears, in a situation combining in so eminent a degree what is beautiful and curious with what is dangerous; for, in truth, you cannot see the most striking part without placing your foot on many a stone affording but very poor footing; but when you have done so, and ascended two or three steps, you perceive all the magnificence of this watery tempest, which beats and rages nearly beneath the Temple of the Sibyl. The whole of the rocks here are formed of sediment, brought by the waters from the Apennines; little granular distinct concretions, which become completely petrified, and form the substance which is known under the name of Tiburtine marble. It is very curious to observe that either fire or water are, in Italy, the secondary agents in all the formations of the soil. Our evening ride back to Rome was delightful; the sun shedding its beautiful setting tints on the Tiburtine range, deeply violet and pink and blue. As we passed the church of San Lorenzo, two priests were taking a quiet evening walk in its portico. We entered this very antique structure, and amongst its lofty pillars traced the course of time, as it swept away the heathen and imperial worship, and placed on its altars the sad evidence of the idolatries of modern Rome. CHAPTER XI. Easter-Palm Sunday-Tenebræ-Pellegrini-Popish Ceremonies. No one who believes that God is a spirit, and that he requires us to worship him in spirit and in truth, can witness Easter in Rome without pain; and although the report of such things is grievous, I think it is desirable that the errors which are abroad in England, as to the improved state of Catholicism, should be as far as possible counteracted by every traveller. I shall therefore give you an account of what I have seen, confirmed by the Diario Romano, printed at Rome in 1827 by "il stampatore della Rev. Camera Apostolica," and the descriptions of the holy week, published in Rome by the Abbé François Cancellieri. The Sistine chapel in the Vatican, early in the morning of Palm Sunday, is ornamented by six chandeliers, and with a cross, which, as well as the altar, is covered with a violet veil. At nine o'clock the pope enters with his silver mitre; his scarlet hood; his whole dress such as a bishop in pontificals, with the "formale" of silver, surrounded by clouds and seraphim, with the countenance, says the abbe, of the "Eternal Father" in precious stones. The pope ascends his throne, and receives the obeisance of the cardinals. Each cardinal, in coming from his place towards the pope, is accompanied by his train-bearer to the |