INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL

IN

EGYPT, ARABIA PETRÆA,

AND

THE HOLY LAND.

BY GEORGE STEPHENS.

NEW EDITION, WITH ADDITIONS.

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. II.

LONDON:

RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET, Publisher in Ordinary to Her Majesty.

1838.

15/324012.

CONTENTS

OF

THE SECOND VOLUME.

CHAPTER I.

The Caravan.—A sudden Change of Purpose.-Perils of a

Storm. Comfortless Repentance. — Solitude.

-

-

- A Woman

and a Chase. - A Patriarchal Feast. Condition of the

Arab Women.-Hospitality.-No refusing a good Offer.-A

Dilemma.

Page 1

CHAPTER II.

Evening amusements.-A Trial of the Feelings.-A Disap-

pointment.-A Santon of the Desert.-An Arab Fisherman.-

Turkish Costume.- -A potent Official. A comfortless Sick-

room.-A Visit from the Sheik. - Interested Friendship.—

Akaba.-The El Alouins.-Questionable Piety.

-

-

CHAPTER 111.

14

Prophecy and Fulfilment.-Unpleasant Suggestions.-The

Denounced Land.

-

Management.

--

A Rencounter.

-

An

Arab's Cunning. - The Camel's Hump. — Adventure with a

Lamb. Mount Hor.- Delicate Negotiations. Approach

to Petra.

- Entrance to the City.-The Temple of

A Record. - The Theatre. - Tombs of Petra.

Arab Simplicity.-Departure from Petra.—A Night in a Tomb.

-Dangers of the Route.

57

CHAPTER V.

A bold Endeavour.-Unexpected Obstacles.-Disadvantage

of a Dress.-The Dead Sea.—A New Project.-The Tomb of

Aaron. An Alarm.-Descent of the Mountain.-An awkward

Meeting.-Poetic License.-All's Well that Ends Well.-Un-

expected Dignities.-Arab Notions of Travel.

CHAPTER VI.

79

Valley of El Ghor.-Prophecies against Edom.-The Sheik's

Treachery.-An Explosion.-Personnel of the Arabs.—Amu-

sing Retrospect.-Money Troubles.-Aspect of the Valley.—

Death of a Camel.-The Desert Horses.-Native Salt.

CHAPTER VII.

101

The Road to Gaza.-Unknown Ruins.-A Misadventure.-

Pastoral Bedouins. A Flower of the Wilderness.

Ravages of War.-Testimony of an Eyewitness.

CHAPTER VIII.

The

122

Approach to Hebron.-A Sick Governor.-A Prescription at

Hospitality of the Jews. Finale with the Be-

Random.

douins.

-

-

A Storm.-A Calm after the Storm.-Venality of

the Arabs. Hebrou. - A Coptic Christian. Story of the

Rabbi.-Professional Employment.

CHAPTER IX.

-

138

An Arnaout.-The Pools of Solomon.-Bethlehem.-The Em-

press Helena.-A Clerical Exquisite.-Miraculous Localities.

-A Boon Companion.-The Soldier's Sleep.-The Birthplace

of Christ.-Worship in the Grotto.-Moslem Fidelity. . 164

among Thieves.

CHAPTER X.

The Tomb of Rachel.-First View of Jerusalem.-Falling

Potent Sway of the Pacha, A Turkish

Dignitary. A Missionary. — Easter in Jerusalem,-A Little

Congregation.

-

186

CHAPTER XI.

Church of the Holy Sepulchre.-An unexpected Discovery.

-Mount Calvary. The Sepulchre.-The Valley of Jehosha-

phat.-The Garden of Gethsemane.-Place of the Temple.—

The four Great Tombs.-Siloa's Brook.

-

CHAPTER XII.

200

-

The Field of Blood.-A Traveller's Compliment.—Singular

Ceremony. A Ragged Rascal.-Ostentatious Humility.

Pride must have a Fall.-An Ancient Relic.—Summary Le-

gislation,

217

CHAPTER XIII.

The Synagogue.-Ideal Speculation.-A Ride in the Rain.

—An Ex-Official.—Joppa.—A Moral Phenomenon.—Rever-

ence for the Grave.

232

CHAPTER XIV.

Desert of St. John.-

-

A Midnight Procession.- Road to

Jericho. A Community of Women. — A Navigator of the

Dead Sea.-A Dance by Moonlight.-A rude Lodging.

CHAPTER XV.

247

The River Jordan.-The Dead Sea.-Force of Example.

-Buoyancy of the Dead Sea.-A Perilous Ascent.-A Navi-

gator of the Dead Sea.-Story of the Voyage.-The Convent

of Santa Saba.

260