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always warrant. It is worth while to be a stranger in a strange land, for sake of knowing the consolation which results from laying hold on that great Being, who hath promised "to preserve the stranger," as well as "to relieve the fatherless and widow." Could I have improved it rightly, this is a source of comfort always at hand, and always adequate to the exigency of the

case.

The next morning I was introduced by the landlord to an English captain, living on his half-pay, as he represented himself, who stayed at the hotel. He manifested nothing of the reserve I have generally found in his countrymen at first acquaintance. Having learned the object of my coming to Bagnieres, he tendered his services with the utmost frankness, and proceeded, forthwith, to take me under his direction. Before I had expressed any wish on the subject, he had sent for a physician, to prescribe relative to the water I should drink, and where I should bathe. Very soon I became quite disgusted with him. His appearance strongly indicated a broken down character; and his conversation was mingled with so much profanity and obscenity, as rendered it utterly abominable. His physician I suspected to be a bon companion of his own. He had been an old surgeon in Bonaparte's army. As soon as possible, without giving offence, I disengaged myself from both. After hearing the prescription of the physician, I gave him a small fee, which was received very gratefully-intimating at the same time, that if I wished farther consultation, I would send for him. I afterwards consulted another physician, whose standing I had first ascertained, relative to taking the waters, and from whom I received a very different prescription.

By means of information received from Dr. Thomas of Toulouse, I have found out an apothecary who

speaks English, and whose house is as pleasantly situated as any in the place. With him I have hired a furnished chamber, for which I pay four dollars per week; and in addition, the market cost of what is brought to my table-the cooking being done in the family, without charge. Such is a common custom of the place. A great part of the inhabitants of the town receive their principal subsistence, by hiring out their chambers, furnished, to strangers who come to take the waters; and those who occupy them, have their victuals cooked in the house; or they repair for their meals to restaurateurs, or eating houses, with which the place is well provided.

I have been here now four weeks, and notwithstanding the dejection and ill bodings in which I was rather disposed to indulge at the outset, find myself more comfortable than I have been at any period since I have been in France. Through Mons. Camus, the apothecary, at whose house I stay, I have become acquainted with an Irish lady and her family, the widow of a rector in the Episcopal church, who resided in Dublin. Her oldest son, who is here also, is studying divinity. In this good lady and her agreeable family, I have found such society as I needed. As there is no Protestant worship to attend on the Sabbath, I have been allowed to exercise something like ministerial functions, in giving exhortation, and performing worship, every Sabbath afternoon in her house. Through her son, I have become acquainted with an English gentleman, of the mercantile class; who, for sake of society, has left his former residence, and taken a chamber in the house with me. He speaks French, is moral, sensible, and very complaisant. Besides, his untiring loquacity, in which he is rather an exception from the English character, makes him a companion, in one respect, equal to

some half dozen. Thus I am liberally provided for, in one very important article society. And in addition to all, and which is better than all, I find myself much recruited, and feel more like being in progress towards restoration, than I have been for years past. Shortly after coming here, I once more commenced the use of flesh in my diet; and have been enabled to persevere in it, I think with good effect. Surely I have the greatest reason to be thankful to that great Being "who feeds the young ravens when they cry to him, and without whom a sparrow cannot fall to the ground;" who thus makes " "goodness and mercy to follow me," as if I was really one of those who fear Him, though I fall so utterly short in gratitude and duty.

I should like very much to give you some correct idea of this same Bagnieres, which as an item of curiosity, falls short of no other place I have yet seen in this interesting country. The town itself is indeed, all things considered, but a paltry place; and it is astonishing to me, that considering the attrac tion of its waters, which have given it celebrity since the days of the Romans, (and how long before nobody knows,) it should still be little more than a village, containing (I speak by guess) about two or three thousand inhabitants. There is not one habitation in it, whose exterior indicates superior elegance; nor is there in its environs, one country seat that attracts notice. There is one establishment, as a publick boarding house, and but the one, which is at this time being refitted; and when completed in style, according to its progress so far, will be superb in its accommodations. The mayor of the town gave a splendid ball at its opening, since I have been here. Strangers generally were invited. I was honoured with a ticket. Any temptation however, which I might have felt to gratify curiosity, by being a looker on

upon the occasion, was at once repressed, from the circumstance of its being on the evening of the Sabbath. This will give you an idea of the religion of the place, where publick feeling would tolerate such an outrage on the sanctity of the Lord's day.

It is the scenery around Bagnieres which has enchanted me, beyond any thing I have ever yet seen, in all the productions either of nature or art. I have mentioned that the town stands in a valley, formed by the projecting spurs of the mountain, which at the town close in, so as to narrow the valley to about half a mile in width. Directly alongside of the town, the mountain rises from the valley by an abrupt and steep ascent, towering to a vast height. This steep face of the mountain is one continued thicket of trees and brush-wood, equal to any thing an American woods can show; so that you can see into it, or out of it, only a very short distance. Up the face of this precipice, art has formed roads, with great labour, winding in zigzag directions, so as to make an easy ascent to the top. As you ascend, you are encompassed with a shade, so thick as to hide almost every thing from your view, but the road, before and behind; and are completely protected from the scorching rays of the sun, at all hours of the day. When you arrive at the top, you find it entirely bare, and the whole world seems at once to open upon you. Standing on the brow of the mountain, you are able to see over the thicket that hides its rugged ascent, and to look down on the town of Bagnieres, which, with its whole arrangement, is completely under your view, far below. Looking up and down the valley, you see it in both directions (a beautiful small river winding through it) as far as your eye can carry you, with all its thickly planted habitations and variety of cultivation. Some idea of the ex

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tent of prospect, as well as population of the country seen, may be formed from the fact, that eleven towns and villages can be distinctly counted, within the range of your vision. Looking towards Spain, on the south, you find yourself just on the verge of a world of mountains-Pyrenees towering behind Pyrenees, in long succession, until the tops of the more distant ranges are seen glistening white with snow. But what is better than all, is the lightness and purity of the mountain air. The weather clearing up, shortly after my arrival, has generally been fine, and it would seem that there is something in the nature of the atmosphere upon the mountains, that renders it exhilarating, beyond any thing I ever experienced. No doubt the beauty of the prospect itself has its effect on the animal spirits, and possibly my nervous system, from its debility, may have a sensibility that renders it more easily excited. It is a fact, however, that I have never ascended this lofty elevation, without feeling quite an exhilaration of spirits, which for a few days at first, was something like incipient intoxication. Half my time, from day to day, has been spent in wandering from one mountain peak to another, enjoying that change of prospect which change of position furnishes. The extended surface of the mountain may itself be called a mountainous country-sinking into deep valleys and rising into lofty peaks. The mountains are devoted to pasturage, and appear to make a fine range for all kinds of animals. Flocks of horses, cows, sheep, goats, and hogs, are here under the care of herdsmen. I have some opportunity of gaining acquaintance with pastoral life; and verily, whatever charms it may be clothed with, in the descriptions of poetry, they all vanish into dreariness and discomfort, as I have seen them in real life. The "shepherds' tents" are among the

last abodes in which I should choose to dwell. The shepherds themselves are the most forlorn wretches any where to be seen.Dirty, ragged, half-starved looking beings, lying for hours basking in the rays of the sun, in listless idleness; and getting up to mope about, with nothing to interest but the flocks they tend from day to day, and night to night. Jacob I believe gave a pretty correct account of the business, when he said, "thus I was in the day, the drought consumed me, and the frost by night, and my sleep departed from mine eyes."

The medicinal waters which Bagnieres furnishes, belong to the wonders of nature. There are nine or ten different springs, some of them very copious, which discharge a great variety of water, generally of a warm temperature, varying from lukewarm to near a boiling heat. They are used equally for drinking and bathing. The water that is most generally drank, is transparent, perfectly tasteless, and a little below blood heat. It is drank early in the morning, to the amount of from one to three half pint tumblers, and operates in the course of

few hours upon the bowels, without any painful sensation. A little girl attends the spring, and receives from each guest she serves, the trifling compensation of two sous.

The baths are in high credit for a variety of complaints, especially those of the rheumatick class; from five minutes to half an hour, is the usual time of continuing in them. The sensation they excite is very pleasant, except to the olfactory nerves, which are saluted with a slight odour, which every body agrees in comparing to that of rotten eggs. The one I have used is attended by an elderly matron, who charges the low compensation of seven cents each time. soon as the patient has adjusted himself in the bath, he rings a bell, and the good lady herself enters

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and removes his linen, which she again returns at a second ring of the bell, comfortably warm, from a small furnace which she keeps heated for the purpose. Such is the outrage on decorum, which custom sanctions in this country. The bathing operates powerfully on the organ of the skin, as I have experienced, by its producing a tendency to perspiration, in a degree to which I have long been a stranger. On the whole, I begin to flatter myself that it may please Providence, through the instrumentality of these waters, to turn my captivity, and bring about a measure of restoration. All however is in his hand, to whom it belongs to order our lot as he sees proper; and whom we may well trust, from the fact that his wisdom cannot mistake, nor his mercy fail. In the belief of this, I

desire to remain, as ever,

Yours, &c.

According to "Ledwick's Antiquities of Ireland," Christianity was planted in that country as early as the fifth century, flourishing there like a garden in a desert, while the nations around it were involved in the darkness of the most abject su perstition. At that early period, it was so famed both for piety and learning, that students came to it from the neighbouring states, to be instructed by the Irish doctors who excelled in philology, philosophy and theology. At the head of the religi ous orders of that day, who were known by the name of "Culdees," was the celebrated Columba, who afterwards established religion in Scot land, from whence it extended to England and Wales. The church, during this period, was of the Pres byterian form, and continued such until the eleventh century, when prelacy was inflicted upon it, with the other miseries of the papal dominion, under which it unhappily fell. From that period until the reign of James, in the beginning of the seventeenth century, Presbyte rianism, and, indeed, piety and religion, may be said to have been ba nished from the island. About this time many thousands of the Scotch, “Forsan`et hæc olim meminisse juvabit." together with their ministers, flying Revered and respected Editor- from persecution at home, came over It was my intention to have pursued to Ireland, and settled in the promy Scottish Recollections much far- vince of Ulster, and reinstated Pres ther; but lest I should become too byterianism; which has to this day garrulous upon the delightful remi- continued to flourish, in despite of niscences of youthful days, and fa- the combined opposition of English tigue both you and your readers, I and papal prelacy. The following have determined to take my depar- however, will appear a curious fact ture from the "land of the covenant," in the present day:-" When Mr. and to bring my communications Blair, a Scotch licentiate, arrived in much sooner to a close. But can I Ireland in 1611, and scrupled an leave that land of letters and of piety, episcopal ordination, Eclin, bishop without casting "one longing, linger- of Down, proposed that the Presby ing look behind!" Ah! no, thou coun- terian ministers should join with him try of my dearest acquirements and in the ordination; and that any ex most joyful associations, "Peace be pressions to which Mr. Blair might within thy walls, and prosperity object in the established form, should within thy palaces. For my brethren be omitted or changed. The bishop and companions' sakes, I will now of Raphoe granted the same indul say, peace be within thee; because gence to a Mr. Livingstone, and the of the house of the Lord our God, I same form was used in the ordinawill seek thy good." tion of all the Scotch ministers, who

FOR THE CHRISTIAN ADVOCATE. TRANSATLANTICK RECOLLECTIONS.

No. VII.

settled in Ireland, from that time till the year 1642."*

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and to a demonstration the most pious and conscientious, were cut off from the Church, and cast upon the world without subsistence, and without an opportunity of usefulness. Many of the clergy who conformed, represented the schism of the dissenters in the most reproachful light. Dr. South calls it 'A schism that unrepented of, will as infallibly ruin their souls as theft, whoredom, or murder, or any other of the most crying, damning sins whatever.'"* And indeed, to this very day, the clergy of the established church in Ireland, keep up the cry of “damn

unfortunate however for these people, that in their zeal they forget that what is schism in one portion of the king's dominions, is well authenticated and established truth in another. In England and Ireland, English episcopacy reigns and rules, branding every thing else as schism; but in Scotland, Presbyterianism claims superiority by virtue of the very same power; while, in Canada, papal episcopacy, which in England, Ireland, and Scotland, is both schism and antichrist, according to the English church, becomes changed from the mother of harlots into a lady of established reputation; and by that very authority too which denounces her at home. So much for schism.

From this period, until the restoration of Charles, the Presbyterians of Ireland, though oftentimes hunted by the bloodhounds of papacy and power, continued to increase, deprived sometimes of liberty, and sometimes of life; yet there was nothing officially done to militate against their standing as real ministers of the Lord Jesus Christ. As a proof of this, they received the tythes of their respective parishes, as the Episcopalians did of theirs, until the reign of the commonwealth under Cromwell, when the tythe was coming schism" against dissenters. It is muted into an annual salary from the treasury of £100 sterling. But scarcely had the king received his crown, and that too in a great measure through the influence of the Presbyterians, when he restored prelacy to all its former splendour, notwithstanding his oath to the contrary. And then it was that persecution was let loose against every sect, however pure in doctrine or holy in practice, that did not crouch beneath the footstool of antichrist. The infamously notorious act of uniformity was passed two years after this, which with one sweep cut off half the nation from Christian communion. Its unholy terms were, 1st. To all who had not been episcopally ordained, re-ordination. 2. A declaration of unfeigned assent to every thing contained in the book of Common Prayer and administration of the sacraments, and other rites and ceremonies of the Church of England; together with the Psalter, and the form and manner of making, ordaining, and consecrating of bishops, priests and deacons. 3. To take the oath of Canonical obedience. 4. To abjure the solemn league and covenant. 5. To abjure the lawful ness of taking arms against the king, or any commissioned by him, on any pretence whatsoever. The conse quence of this act was, that two thou sand ministers, the most learned, * Vide "A Sketch of the Presbyteri.

ans of Ireland."

From this time until the coronation of George I., Presbyterians were treated more like the wild beasts of the forest than like men. As a proof of this, I will relate a few facts concerning their treatment in Ireland :—In 1662, when Major Blood, a desperate adventurer, laid a plan to surprise and take the Castle of Dublin, lo! the Presbyterians, because Blood was one of that denomination, were accused en masse. A number of their ministers were examined, and although on the examination it appeared that neither the clergy or laity of that body were implicated, yet seven ministers were imprisoned in Carlingford, and all the Scotch in the country were disarmed. After

* Manning's Life of Towgood.

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