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202

Ancient and Modern Liverpool.

building for Assemblies; the Rotunda; the Music Hall, and the Olympic Circus. Under this head we may class the Botanic Garden, which, in the number of its exotics, is surpassed only by the Royal Gardens at Kew.

Seventh. Structures of PUBLIC UTILITY. We can find no building exclusively devoted to this purpose in 1761. At present, however, we have two extensive water-works, an oil and coal Gas Company, a handsome and spacious covered Market (see vol. XCII. ii. p. 113), and commodious Fish-stores. Under this head we may remark, that there was only one public marketplace in 1761; now there are five.

Eighth. In 1761, there was no building purposely constructed for a PRISON. The old tower which formerly stood at the bottom of Waterstreet, was then appropriated to the confinement of debtors and felons; but it was contracted, and very insecure. At present we have the airy, spacious, and secure Borough Gaol, in Great Howard-street. We may also include in this division the large and commodious County House of Correction, and elegant Court House at Kirkdale, built upon the most judicious plan, and affording every facility for the classification of prisoners. Here, however, we must yield the palm of superiority to our ancestors; for it is not certainly in proof of our improved morality, that so much prison room is required.

We have now, we believe, enumerated and contrasted all the public structures existing at the two periods; and having seen the immeasurable distance at which the antient is thrown by the modern town in point of ornament and embellishment, we are prepared to meet a similar improvement in the style of DOMESTIC ARCHITECTURE. Several mansions which, no doubt, were deemed elegant in 1761, still survive, but they cannot stand a comparison with those of the present day. Strength and convenience, with out much regard to external appearance, seem to have been the only objects which the architects of 1761 had in view, in their dwelling houses. But the face of the town has entirely changed; and the immense ranges of elegant dwelling houses erected within the last 20 years, and distributed into

Seen in the right corner of the view in

105.

[March,

streets and squares, in the most eligible situations, exhibit the natural effects of commercial wealth, in refining the style of domestic architecture, and in combining splendour with convenience.

The SHOPS of the antient town resembled the dwelling houses. They were small, and there was nothing elegant or ornamental to be seen. If they could be compared with the present splendid ranges of spacious, elegant, and commodious shops, they would form as striking a contrast as can be imagined.

The STREETS and SQUARES of the two periods present a very marked contrast. Enfield, whose History of Liverpool appeared in 1773, speaking of the streets at that period, says, "It must be owned, that in the antient parts of the town, little attention has been paid to regularity or elegance; and that in general, the buildings are so crowded, that the inhabitants are much more indebted for health to nature than to art." A survey of the streets in the antient part of the town, evince the truth of this statement. They are mean, narrow, and gloomy. In fact, the widening and improving of them has for many years employed, and will continue to employ, a considerable portion of the ample funds of the Corporation. But the modern streets are regular, airy, and spacious; and the squares highly ornamental, some with beautiful gardens in the

centre.

We now come to contrast the CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS of the two periods. We have seen already that there were only three buildings devoted to charitable purposes in 1761, and that eight have been added since. But there are numerous charities, which, as they do not require them, have no buildings exclusively appropriated to their use, or none sufficiently conspicuous to deserve classification among the public structures. Among them we may enumerate the Ladies Charity for the relief of poor women in childbed; the Strangers' Friend Society; that for bettering the condition of the Poor; the Society for promoting Christian Knowledge; the Bible Society; auxiliaries to all the Missionary Societies; and a great number of minor but useful Charities, which we have not space to enumerate; ALL supported by the bounty of individuals.

Nor

1823.]

Ancient and Modern Liverpool.

Nor is modern Liverpool less conspicuous in Schools for eleemosynary education of the children of the poor. In 1761, the excellent Blue Coat Hospital, and the Free Grammar School*, were the only charity schools in the town. The former institution still flourishes. But without entering into a tedious enumeration of the different modern institutions for this purpose, we may state, on the authority of an accurate survey recently made, that the total number of children who now receive gratuitous instruction in Day and Sunday Schools, is 11,982, who are educated at an annual expense of 67391. We have now delineated and contrasted all the prominent features in the character of Liverpool, at the two periods of 1821 and 1761; features which distinguish her from other great towns, and which have enabled her to surpass most of them in the career to opulence and fame. We shall now proceed to contrast her in points not so much peculiar to her, as common to the other great towns of the empire. To begin with PLACES of PUBLIC ACCOMMODATION and ENTERTAINMENT. These have kept pace with the growth of the town. In 1761, there were only two inns, the Golden Lion and the Talbot. At present there are above 20 principal, besides a great number of inferior inns.

An elegant and extensive building is now preparing for warm and cold salt water Baths, in lieu of the old ones, destroyed by building the Prince's Dock.

The first appearance in 1761 of a stage coach in this town from London, no doubt excited as much surprise in the minds of our forefathers, as the *appearance of steam boats in the river in our minds a few years ago. A stage coach hence to Prescot was set up in 1764, and is mentioned among the memorabilia of that period. Could our "rude forefathers" rise from their graves, and behold the present number and equipment of our mail and stage coaches, the spectacle would fill them with amazement.

In the records of 1761, we find no mention of packets, although there were, no doubt, one or two to Ireland and the Isle of Man. In 1821, we have five steam packets to Dublin; three to the Isle of Man, Port Patrick,

* Since unaccountably suffered to fall

into disuse.

203

and Greenock; one to the Bristol Channel; one to Whitehaven and Dumfries; one to the river Dee; two to Bangor, Carnarvon, &c.; and eight on the river Mersey. To Dublin alone we have also eight sailing packets, and others to Newry, Belfast, and the Isle of Man. There is also an admirable establishment of foreign packets, of which four sail monthly to New York. In facility of CANAL and Land CONVEYANCE, the modern has an indisputed superiority over the antient town. It enjoyed little inland navigation in 1761. The intercourse between the town and Manchester was then chiefly carried on by means of pack-horses. Now there are three ca nals to that town, and immense quantities of waggons, beside two mails, and nine coaches, for the conveyance of passengers daily.

It would be unpardonable in us to conclude this imperfect contrast, without comparing the state of that mighty engine the PRESS. In 1761, there was only one newspaper printed in the town; at present there are four political, two commercial, and three literary journals.

We have not, in this slight sketch, contrasted the intellectual character and refinement of the inhabitants at the two periods. This might be deemed invidious; but we may observe, without any design or wish to depreciate our revered ancestors, that the preceding detail demonstrates the infinite superiority over them in the qualities and attainments requisite for acquiring and consolidating commercial greatness. The poverty of taste and refinement in 1761, as compared with their perfection in 1821, was not so much the fault of our ancestors, as of the times in which they lived. The fine spirit which influences the present age, had scarcely gone abroad at that period; and our present cultivated taste and high degree of refinement are the growth of the last 20 or 30 years. Intellect in Liverpool has not followed, but led the march to improvement.

Thus we have contrasted Liverpool in 1821 with Liverpool in 1761. At the latter period we found her in her. infancy, but abounding in all the elements of commercial greatness. She. has since expanded in bulk, and swelled in population. In her rapid progress to maturity, she has outstripped her rival on the banks of the Severn,

and

204

Ancient and Modern Liverpool.-Recent Baronetages. [March,

and has herself become a formidable rival to the Metropolis. She now grasps in her arms one-third of the commerce of the united kingdom, and takes her indisputed rank as the second sea-port of the empire. The contrast is one at which we may well feel an honest pride; and Liverpool may be held up to the world as an illustrious example of what talent, perseverance, and enterprise have achieved in the reign of a single Monarch. Yours, &c.

S. R.

Additions to Account of Liverpool. P. 105. Col. 1, 1. 31, for open, read arched; 1. 32, for joints, read joists. Col. 2, 1. 16, add M.P. for Liverpool, 1713; 1. 17, add Liverpool is a Mediety with two Rectors (like Malpas). By the Act of 1699, two Curacies were made into Rectories. The Rev. Samuel Renshaw, M. A. was appointed Rector in 1794; and the Rev. Robert Hankinson Roughsedge, M.A. in 1796, both now living, and able and worthy pastors. The two Rectors serve and do duty, and at the end of every six months, regularly change churches. (See Gregson's Fragments, p. 173.)

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Magazine for Oct. p. 304, are partly just: but they require a little qualification or explanation. Since 1790 some of the most unquestionably ancient Commoners' families in the Kingdom have been elevated to the Baronetage: such as Corbet, Kyneson, Tyrell, Malet, Knightley, Welby, Broke, Brograve, &c. Besides these, many younger branches of noble families have also been elevated to the same honour-such as (Manners,) Chetwynd, Onslow, (Lennard), (Coote), Cholmely, (Hastings,) (Nugent,) Stanhope; Hood, (Bertie,) Macdonald, (Beresford,) Grey, Clifford, Brydges, Dalrymple, Humilton, Ogle, Maitland, Hervey, Lechmere, Hamilton, Chichester, Dundas. Among the new creations of this period are upwards of 30 Generals, and 20 Admirals.

The number of Citizens created is about 43, exclusive of East Indians. The Medical and Surgical List is large. To these add Official Men, Commissioners, Commissariat, &c. Yours, &c.

C.

Mr. URBAN,

THE CR

April 29.

HE Manor of Everton, in the parish of Walton, is situated on a high ridge of land, running from North to South, about one mile and a half abutting on the Eastern boundary of the great commercial seaport of Liverpool, from which boundary, to its Eastern limits, is one mile one furlong. At time of the Survey it was one of the six hamlets belonging to the regal manor of Derby, held by King Edward the Confessor; the tenants of which, at this day, owe suit and service at the Halmote Court held at West Derby by the Lord of that Manor.

By the charter roll, 36 Henry III. we find William de Ferrars, Earl of Derby, obtained liberty of free warren over this Manor. He was succeeded by his son Robert de Ferrars, who taking part with Simon de Montfort Earl of Leicester, in rebellion against King Henry III. he was attainted, and his possessions forfeited to the Crown. King Henry afterwards bestowed them on his son Edmund Crouchback, with the titles of Earl of Lancaster, Derby, &c. In the Inquisition post mortem taken on his demise, 25 Edward I. this manor occurs"Everton 24 bovat. ter." 33

the first Duke of Lancaster, gave the "villam de Everton, cum Tuber, &c. p'tinen." to his servant John Barret and his heirs; in failure of issue to return to the said Earl, or his successors. The above grant was confirmed by King Edward III. in the 33d year of his reign, as appears by the Calendarium Rotulorum Patentium, p. 170.

Blanch, one of the daughters and coheirs of the above Duke Henry, brought the whole of the possessions in this county in marriage to John of Gaunt, who in 1362 obtained a confirmation of them, with the title of Duke of Lancaster. His only surviving son, Henry of Bolingbroke, succeeded him in his title and estates, and afterwards usurped the throne by the title of Henry IV. on which event he vested the whole of the vast possessions belonging to the Duchy in the Crown, under which this manor remained till the time of King Charles I. who sold it, and several of the surrounding manors, to Edward Ditch

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*This Engraving was first printed with Ink manufactured, under the direction of Mr. Gregson, from burnt corn (taken from the great fire of the Goree, which occurred at Liverpool in September 1812,) in vol. XXII. of the "Transactions of the Society of Arts, Manufactures, and Commerce." For this and other useful applications of burnt materials, the Society awarded the Gold Medal to that Gentleman.

+ Engraved in vol. xcII. i. 585.-EDIT.

Esq.

206

Everton Church, near Liverpool.-St. Olave, Hart-street. [March,

Esq. of Liverpool. The Beacon was blown down by a storm in 1803, in consequence of the walls having been undermined for materials.

was

Its site is occupied by a Church, (built in the Gothic style, by John Cragg, Esq. of the Mersey Iron Foundry), dedicated to St. George, and consecrated in 1814; on which occasion an excellent serinon preached by the minister, the Rev. R. P. Buddicorm, M.A. F.S.A. from 2 Chron. chap. vi. verse 18, « But will God in very deed dwell with men on the earth; behold heaven, and the heaven of heavens cannot contain thee, how much less this house that I have built." The whole of the frame-work of the windows, doors, pillars, groins, roof, and pulpit, with the beautiful enrichments, are of cast iron, the execution of which does infinite credit to the above gentleman. Its length from East to West is 119 feet, the breadth 47. The East end is lighted by a large splendid window of stained glass. In front of the organ gallery is placed the royal arms, an ancient piece of carving, wrought out of a solid piece of elm. The basement story of the tower is appropriated as a baptistry, in the centre of which is placed a font of variegated marble, inscribed "The gift of Thomas Golightly, Esq. of Liverpool." On the North wall is affixed a monument of white marble in the Gothic style, designed by T. Rickman, architect, inscribed in old English characters:

"In memory of John Rackham, esq. of Liverpool, merchant, who died Feb. xvjj, MDCCCXV. aged lxjj years."

Ascending the tower, which is 96 feet high, or 345 feet above the high water mark, there is a most commanding and beautiful view of rural and marine scenery in all its picturesque varieties. Liverpool, the seat of busy commerce and industry, on the West, embosomed in an extensive valley, presents a congregated scene of multiplied spires, domes, &c. seated on the Estuary of the Mersey, on whose spacious bosom majestic vessels sail along to greet the circling main. On the North the country presents a level surface as far as the eye can trace the prospect. The West is closed by the distant mountains of Wales, whose craggy tops exhibit a sombre grandeur in

clear weather, equalled only by their indistinctness when the parting sun is sinking below the horizon, enye loping their tops in shadow, and impressing emotions of interest and pleasure in the beholder. The prospect to the S. E. exhibits a pleasing and diversified landscape, bounded by the distant mountains of Cumberland and Westmorland. W. I. ROBERTS.,

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THE Parish Church of Saint Olave

in Hart-street, is one of those which were not consumed in the great Fire of London; and with the exception of the upper parts of the tower (with its turret), and the vestry-room, which are brick-built, productions of late years, most of the other principal parts of this edifice are interesting to the Antiquary.

Like Churches in general, it consists of a nave, with side ailes: the arches and corresponding columns between which are bold and handsome, and would be much more so if the columns were more lofty. At the East end of the South front is the vestry-room. The nave is longer than the ailes; as the Western part of the former is bounded Northward by a portion of the rectory-house, and Southward by the tower. The latter has two handsome arches of communication with the nave and South aile; and to the South-west angle is attached a smaller tower, within which is a stone staircase leading to the belfry.

Mention is made of this Church

early in the Fourteenth Century; for Newcourt, in his "Repertorium," records William de Samford to have been Rector of it in 1319: and from the gracefully pointed arches of four of the window apertures, and of the lower arches of the nave and tower, I am induced to suppose, that the parts containing them are the most ancient portions of the Edifice. The four apertures which I thus allude to, are, the window on the West side of the tower; those at the East and West ends of the nave, and that' at the East end of the North aile. Of what forms the tracery of them may have been originally, is uncertain; the said West window of the tower has, at present, three lights or divisions with cinque-foil heads; and small upright mullions, with corres

ponding

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