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beguile the hours of a folitary journey. down in my clothes, upon the bed, The multiplicity of works of this kind which was partitioned out of a cabin, is in itself fufficient, almost, to preclude scarce large enough to hold the crew; excellence or novelty: what has been and was almost fuffocated with the of so often feen, and said, must have been fenfive smell that issued from it.-My: well faid, and rightly seen, by fome one. attempts to Keep were constantly interYet there is in every man that native rupted by the lalutations of the feas; vanity, which persuades him, from the who, claiming the territory as facred influence of prejudiced impressions, to themselves, fufficiently punished me there

may be something to interest in his for my intrufon. I felt them repeatown writings. Our author's reflections edly making the grand tour of my body, are just and forcible ; but they contain leaving many marks of their excursions little that is new, and less that is truly upon its different parts and promontointeresting. Heis an enthufiastic admirer ries;-both on the peninsula of my of Rousseau; to whom, and Ermenon- face, the isthmus of my neck, and the ville, a great portion of the book is de more continental parts of my back and voted. Some of the Romith ceremonies Moulders. We had not been long out are well described; and a rational dif- at fea, when the captain descended; I tinction is drawn between what is su- observed him strike a light, which he perftition, and what religion ; between was a long while bringing into existwhat constitutes the deift and what the ence; when, lighting a candle, he reachdevotee.

ed with it over my bed as far as he could; The following extra&s, however, will in order, as I concluded, to discover if not be found devoid of entertainment. the vessel leaked-he did the fame on

the other side, and immediaté muttered Dieppe, Aug. 3, 1988. some oaths. I found my apprehensions " Nothing can be more ridiculous to beginning to awake,when, suddenly, an English eye, nor, one would think, the noise of the pump from above, and

eye of common sense, than the the quantity of water running off the dress of the people of this place. Every deck, so much alarmed me, as to make rank, age and fex, with their hair dressed, me jump out of my bed, and run up powdered, and toupee'd, from a child stairs. I there learned that the vessel of fix to a man or woman of sixty. Sail. leaked; but could not satisfy myself ors, frisseurs, and gentlemen, all dressed with respect to the danger. I went without distinction. The habits of the down again into the cabin, and was women are still more curious and dit. difturbed every quarter of an hour with gusting than those of the men; they go the working of the pump. I was hearwithout hars; the lappets of their ugly tily glad to welcome the morning light; caps flying about their ears, and their and arose from my bed at its earliest petticoats scarcely reaching to their peep, more tired than refreshed. knees :-indeed their ideas of delicacy must be totally different from those of their sex on our fide the water; it is

" We arrived at Carentan about very common to see a woman, or half nine o'clock in the evening;---as the a dozen together, standing in the open diligence did not stop for supper, I ftreets, and without a blush, or the made the best of my way to a miserable leaft consciousness of impropriety, per. auberge, with two fellow passengers, forming the offices of nature." who were Frenchmen. We enquired

for meat, for butter, and for cheese Cherbourg, Aug. 6, 1788. in vain; all we could procure was dry The author's defcription of his paf- bread. The cuisinier was busy, frying fage from Dieppe to this place is fome. fome pancakes in a corner, which I

peo what curious.--" I had to spend two titioned most strongly to partake of; nights and a day on board a miserable his refusal the more heightened my deNoop, with only the captain, two fail. fire; but intreaty, promises, and every ors, and a boy; whose faces I had temptation was fruitless, as it was all never before seen, and whose jargon I they could procure for some guests who could with difficulty understand. I laid were to fup in an adjoining room. The

politea

politeness of my fellow.travellers was " I visited the celebrated 'Abbage, fatisfied at the excuse; but on my at- founded by William the Conqueror ; tempting to lay hold of one of the pan. it is a very fine edifice, and kept in cakes, the cuisinier removed the dith to wonderful good order. About the midthe farther end of the kitchen.

dle of the altar (which, with the choir, 6. There are certain occasions when is all of marble) is the monument of a man is so much bent upon the acqui- king William, who was here interred. frtion of a trifle, as to Tubject himself « I dined, according to my engage: to the most serious consequences, rather ment, with the gentleman to whom i than be disappointed. Such was the had procured a letter; and was much present; and had all the cuisiniers in pleased at meeting with an Englisman, France (of which,, by the bye, there is who lived with him. He was an old a tolerable number) been present, I gentleman of family and fortune, from should have enjoyed the bustle, Devonshire, and had formed an attach

" I at first made proposals to my fel ment to this Frenchman, to whom he low-travellers to make an open attack was about to leave his fortune. I there upon the pancakes, and to carry them found an instance of one of those extraoff in triumph, by force of arms; but ordinary propensties of huinan nature, they fhuddered at the incivility of the that seemed to run counter to truth and thought. I then drew backwards by probability. This old gentleman, who degrees, and watching an opportunity, had been born in the foil of freedom, took out my fork, and stuck it through and had participated in all the advanthe pancakes; at once, all was confu- tages, of civilization, elegance; and fion; the master, the mistress, the fille · taste, that characterise our happy ille, de chambre, the cuisinier -all ran to had conceived a strong partiality for feize me: I few round the kitchen, France. He could say nothing that was taking care to keep aloof till I had de- favourable to England; and to afliduvoured my prey; and never did I eat ous was he in discovering all the errors my thing with greater gosit. All the: and blemi dies in the manners, laws, diables; and every oath that French in- . climate, and constitution of our coungenuity and nonsense could invent, were try, that, at the view he gave of it, poured upon me, and I was at last forced our situation was truly deplorable:to make my escape to the coach, laugh- our liberty was only a chimera ; our ing most heartály at the situation I had laws were unequal and abfurd; 'our left them in.

manners rude and unpolished ; our po- ' sa. I know that this adventure cannot. licy defective; and our religion herebe excused on the ground of civility or tical. So nicely had he fifted, through justice; but such confiderations are fel- the grate of prejudice, every cireumdom operative, when we are disposed for stance relative to England, that its beauwhat an Englishman would justify by; ties were all loft and overlooked, and the name of fun.

its defects alone preserved. These were

presented to the view of his French com« Caën is thirty-one leagues from panions, who, conceiving them to be Cherbourg; it is the second city in the essence of English manners, bless'd Normandy; the prospect of it, on en themselves (Heavens bless them!) that tering, is very pleasant, but the coun. they were Frenchmen. try around by no means luxuriant. I. « On leaving Caën, we foon comwas much surprized, about a mile from menced a conversation, and I found. Caën, at meeting a lady finely dressed, myself in company with characters rariding aftride upon an ass, with a fer- ther different. An old man, who had vånt on foot following her. We reached never wandered far beyond the precinets Caën about eleven o'clock: I went to of his native town ; one of a middle the Hotel d'Angleterre, where I found age, who had been great part of his feveral English families; and having time in Italy, and talked the language delivered a letter of recommendation, well; and a young puppy, who was and engaged myself to dinner, I walked' dressed to the utmost extreme of French out to take a survey of the town. frippery. On inquiring the hour, as

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foon as the morning opened, the youth alone for mercy. They took possession drew out a watch, by the appendage of of his gold watches, his money, and a long and brilliant chain; but appear every thing about him, and calling for ing not satisfied with its decision, hè the conducteur, drew a parcel from the drew forth another from his other side; coach, containing calh to the amount of equal richness, with a long equipage of two hundred pounds. This the of gold seals and trinkets. I lifted up wretch had that morning tolen from my eyes, and could not help lamenting his father, and was i making off for how foon conveniency and use are dif- Paris : the chasseurs were dispatched torted into extravagance and folly. after him, and the process now was The woman, who made the fourth pass pretty summary; they secured him, senger, was old and talkative, and, and took him away - God knows making only remarks that were frivo- whither. lous and trilling, and comments that ..« A little disconcerted at this adwere anticipated and obvious, would venture, we again proceeded forwards ; frequently interrupt a conversation more but the variety of objects, and the reagreeable. The politeness of the men volution of ideas, incident thereon, obliged them to break off.a discourse, foon removed the imprellion, As for: however interesting, when addreffed by the Frenchmen, they refumed at once a female, however infignificant.?.. their cheerfulness, and forgot all pity

“ We rode through continued and or detestation towards their former pleasant rows of trees, till we reached companion, in exprellions of gallantry, Lisieux, where we dined.

pleafantry, and politenes. “ Normandy is divided into seven bi.

Paris, Aug. 12, 1788. Thoprics; namely, Bayeux, Coutances, “ Every spot, as we approached the Lisieux, Evreux, Seez, Avranches, and capital, became more and more inteRouën. It contains seven bailliages, reiting; we saw a valt number of chafour in the Upper, and three in the teaus; some elevated high above ys, Lower Normandy, as follow; Rouen, come at a distance, by the fide of the Evreux, Caux, Gisori; Caën, Alen- river, and others standing in little çoe, and Coutance.

islands, encircled with groves of

Pop“ On returning to the inn, I resumed

lars. my seat, and pártook of a desert; when , “ At: length we reached St. Gera presently a berlin.drove into the yard; main's, which is the Windsor of Paris. and two tall.ill-looking fellowsinftantly In point of prospect, the comparison leaped out, with swords in their hands. may possibly holdb;- but the town is At once, all was mute attention; (every“ moft miserably, inferior. We passed one knew, besides myself, of what de the palace and gardens, but could have scription they were ; the door opened, no tolerable view of them. and they entered our room. In such a ! :" I could not but look with indige country as this, everyone has realom to nation upon a place that served as a tremble for his fafety.. Confternation fanctuary for an English monarch, seized upon the looks of the whole who, -both throughout-his reign and company; each trait of vivacity was his exile, was a dependent on the fled; fear, horror, and expectation, French crown. It was here that James hung upon every brow; each, though the First retreated, in the year 1690, unknowing of a cause, fearing for him. after the glorious battle of the Boyne, self. I instantly caught the tremor, and and ever afterwards held his servile felt myfelf a good deal alarmed, when one of them fixed his haggard looks in. " We passed the famous engine at tent upon me (I supposed, afterwards, Marli, invented for the purpose of fupfrom seeing me to be a foreigner), Pre, plying the king's gardens at Versailles, fently they seized on the youth i before and Miarli with water, which is taken {poke of, and commanded him to fure from the Seine, to the height of six render everything he had. Guilt hundred feet, and carried to the dili blushed in his face, and consciouiness tance of fix miles. seemed to take away every power of “ On approaching Paris, we met with defence, or of excule, and he begged a number of ill-Ihapen monsters, y cleped

court.

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carriages, driving out for an evening's the ruins of the building, the whole side; they are constructed of every pose city were affembled around, and fol. fible uncouth and aukward shape, and lowed the carriages, in a procession were charmingly contrasted with an Similar to the funeral of the most la. English carriage or two that I had the mented monarch, whilft dejection hung pleasure of meeting. I was much ftruck upon every countenance, and every at the environs, and the entrance of Pa- tongue uttered lamentations. A com ris; it was far superior to any thing I mon fellow, who was riding upon one had a conception of. The scene was of the carriages, picked out, from the truly beautiful; an immense length of heap of ruins

on which he was sitting, road, with rows of trees, and houses on the habiliments of an opera prince, and, each fide, was terminated, at the point decking himself with the richest orna of a rising hill, by two handsome bar- ments he could find, rode along with riers, which formed a striking coup the state of a Rinaldo. As foon as d'æil. After passing them, we entered this humorous feat attracted the eye of the Champs Elisées, that seemed very the people, the look of dejection, and rightly fo named. Avenues opened on the cry of sorrow, were changed in a either side of the road, and viftas of moment, and succeeded by the most ex. young trees were filled in every part cessive peals of laughter. with company. Some were regaling “ The palace of the Thuilleries (fo themselves at tables beneath the trees; named from having been built on a others, under open tents; and farther spot formerly over-run with reeds and in were parties walking : ladies were marshes) adjoins to the grand gallery parading along in full dress, with their of the Louvre. The palace is very sufans in their hands; and gentlemen perb, and the statues dispersed about the walking by their fides, with their hats gardens, exquisite. The chef d'auvres beneath their arms : in short, every part of le Pautre, and the beautiful produce was crouded; and the road was equally tions of Bouchardon, are here collected. filled with a vast diversity of carriages, The statue of Æneas carrying his fa: of the most fanciful and tawdry appear. ther from Troy, is finely executed; ances; some of which were gilt all and the charming piece of Arria and over. So new a scene made me lose al- Petus * surpasses the power of descrip. most every idea of reality, and I fancied tion. I was so rapt in admiration, it to be enchantment, or at least that I that I wanted new powers of expression. was in China, or some such remote The look and attitude of Pecus, as he country; our ideas of which approach Views his wife stabbing herself, to teach towards it, as being wholly different him how to die, is such as the most im. from any thing we have ever been ac. paffioned and expressive actor would customed to.

find it hard to imitate. Life, thought, .“ In the evening I went to the grand paffion, and horror, are thrown into opera, and was very much entertained. the piece; and the calmness and refig. The form of the building is very hand- nation of Arria. It is not painful, Some; and, considering the shortness of Petus !'-is beautifully contrakted. the space in which it was erected, is much to be admired. It was built in “ To a person who has been much fix weeks after the former opera was in the habit of being abroad, the mode burnt down, which unhappily destroyed of keeping the Sunday in England, many of the finest dresses and decora. must have a great appearance of retions.

serve, and of austerity; nor could such “ This fatal conflagration, at the a one well reconcile himself to that totime, occasioned a general horror and tal metamorphosis which is then redespondency throughout the whole city. quired. The observance would be teThey tell of a circumstance, so truly dious, and the restraint intolerable. In descriptive of the characteristics of France, the duties of the day cease with the French levity and frivolity, that I those of the church ; and between the cannot avoid relating it. Whilst the intervals of mass, the vacancy is most remains of the decorations and scenery * See this story in Vol. I. page 74. It is were carrying away in waggons from embellished with a Plate.

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frequently filled with cards. Devotion hy draw-bridges, and secured by gates,
is here of fo portable and so accommo which shut one within the other. They
dating a nature, that it may with equal guard it with so much watchfulness
ease, and at any time, be laid down or and jealousy, that you dare not ap:
resumed ; and after all the ardour of proach to look at it. The deputies
religion, and the envelopement of them- from Brittany were then airing them-
selves in zeal and mystery, a transition felves upon the ramparts : I turned with
may at once be made to levity, and the disgust from the place.
mos trifling amusements. The after-

Aug, 20. noons are universally spent in pleasure; 64 The king's library was this day and the opera, and the French and qpen; an opportunity I did not miss Italian comedies for the polite, and the

of embracing. It comprises two hunpetites theatres for the bourgeois, serve dred thousand printed volumes, beside to make up for the interruption and

fix thousand manuscripts;

and is esteemconitraint of the morning. Although ed the firft in Europe. The books are the calls upon the people to religious contained in six large saloons, in one duties are frequent, in Roman-catholic of which are two immense globes, concountries, they are not tiresome; their structed by Coronelli: they stand in a frequency is rendered palatable, by hall below, and, through two large their toleration of, and their coalition apertures, reach into the room above, with, the different amusements. Fairs from whence observations are to be are generally held in celebration of made. Their diameter is eleven feet fome faint on Sundays, and standings eleven inches; the cicles for the mealways placed at the church doors.

ridian and horizon were made by an Aug. 18.

Englisman, and are eighteen feet in

diameter. “ I have this day taken a view of the

66 The amusements here are much Jardin du Roi; which is laid out to the better conducted than in England : they admiration of the French; the chief beauty of it is the botanical collection, minate at a more early hour; so as to

are not so long in duration, and terarranged according to species. On the leave time for a continuation of sotop of a circular mount in the garden, ciety after lupper, without a sacrifice which

you

afcend by a winding walk, of the health and spirits. The decorum is a small temple, that commands an exter.five view of Paris and its erwirons. public places, would likewise be very

and good order that is preferved in the This spot is likewise polluted, in being delirable, were it not for the idea that dedicated to adulation, and to.vanitv..

those vile guns,' and horrible Swiss “ From the Jardin du Roi, we crossed the Seine in a boat, and.walked through the means of it. I should, on no ac

guards, Ituok up in every corner, were the arsenal; at the end of which was the

count, ever will to see tire soldiery preBastille.

fide over, or interfere in, the amuse,
“ As I looked
upon

ments of Englishmen.
walls, my soul shuddered within me.
I beheld that terrific engine of arbitrary

Aug. 22. power, with horror and deteftation. I “ The characteristics of all the pubfeared to tread upon the ground that lic works in this country, are grandeur encircled it: all was horrible and dreary. and expence; nothing is left unatAccursed mansion! I exclaimed; thoạ tempted, that is within the grasp of haft been the dungeon and the tomb of possibility. Neither labour nor profumany, whose brealts have burned with lion are regarded; and oftentines the the facred love of liberty, and whose immensity of their designs outsteps the hearts have been warmed with the holy means of execution; as there are many Aame of virtue! Would that I were an things here, remaining monuments of enchanter! that thy ghaftly walls might the greatness of human ambition, and tumble to the ground !

the weakness of human ability. į “ A deep fosse surrounds it, with " In the afternoon, I was taken to high walls, that mock every idea of the chapel of the Convent of Saint escape : the approach to it is defended Sacrament, to attend -a ferman from a YOL. II.

D

famous

the gloomy

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