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which so many ridiculous tales were butt-end of a lance, shod with iron,
told by the Tripoline ambassador, Caf- upon the juncture of the neck with the
fem Aga, at the beginning of this cen back bone. This he received from an
tury, and all believed in England, Arab; a tribe of whom were already
though they carried falsehood upon the arrived to plunder the hip:
very face of them,

After having received this discipline, Next approaching the fea coast, he he had walked, or crawled up among arrived at Ptolometa, where he met a some white, fandy hillocks, where he Greek junk belonging to Lampedosa, a fat down and concealed himself as little ihand near Crete, which had been much as possible. The weather was unloading corn, and was now ready to then warm, but the evening promised fail.

to be cooler, and it was fast drawing He embarked on board this veffel, on; there was great danger to be apvery ill accoutered, as he afterwards prehended if he approached the tents, found, and, though it had plenty of where the women were, while he was fail, it had not an ounce of ballast. A naked, for in this case it was very number of people, men, women and probable he would receive another bal children, flying from the calamities tinado something worse than the first. which attend famine, crowded in un- Still he was so confused, that he had not known to him; but the passage was recollected he could speak to them in short, the vessel light, and the master, their own language, and it now only as was supposed, well accustomed to came into his mind, that by the'gibthose feas. The contrary of this, how- berish, in imitation of Turkih, which ever, was the truth, as he learned after the Arab had uttered to him while he wards, when too late, for he was an was bearing and stripping him, he took absolute landsman ; proprietor indeed him for a Turk, and to this mistake he of the vessel, but this had been his firft probably owed his ill treatment. voyage. They failed at dawn of day in The shekh of the tribe, being in very favourable and pleasant weather. peace with the bey of Bengazi, and also It was the beginning of September, and with the shekh of Ptolometa, after a light and Iteady breeze, though not many questions, ordered our traveller a properly fair, promised a short and plentiful supper, of which all his feragreeable voyage ; but it was not long vants partook, none of them having before it turned fresh and cold; a perished. A multitude of consultations violent Mower of hail came on, and the followed on their complaints, of which clouds were gathering as if for thunder. he freed himlelf in the best manner he Mr. Bruce observed that they gained no could. offing, and hoped, if the weather turned After staying two days among them, bad, to persuade the captain to put into the liekh reitored to them all that had Bengazi, for one inconvenience he pre- been taken from them; and mounting sently discovered, that they had not them upon camels, and giving them a provision on board for one day. conductor, he forwarded them to Ben

The expected storm came on, the gazi, where they arrived the second day wind blew contrary to their wishes ; in the evening and, before they could reach the har He loft a fextant, a parallactic inbour of Bengazi, the ship Itruck on a strument, a time-piece, a reflecting funken rock. Ainong others, Mr. telescope, an achromatic one, with many Bruce and his servants took to the buat; drawings, a copy of M. de la Caille's but being in great danger of oversetting, ephemerides down to the year 1775, our traveller, fearing that some of the much to be regretted, as being full of people would take hold of him to save manuscript marginal notes ;

a small themselves, committed himself to the camera obscura, fome guns, pistols, a waves, telling his servants to follow. blunderbuss, and several other articles, In this situation he continued some of less value. time, Itruggling manfully against the At Bengazi Mr. Bruce found a small storm ; but when, by the most uncom French floop, the master of which had mon efforts, he had reached near thore, been often at Algiers when he was he lost his recollection. This he lay, consul there. He had even, as the uill awakened by a stroke froin the master remembered, done him some


little service, for which, contrary to the bathed with pleasure in the river Ado. custom of that sort of people, he was nis. All here is classic ground. He very grateful. He had come there laden faw several considerable ruins of Grewith corn, and was going up the Ar- cian architecture all very much dechipelago, or towards the Morea, for faced.

The cargo he had brought was He passed Latikea, and then came to but a mite compared to the necessities of Antioch, and afterwards to Aleppo. the place; it only relieved the soldiers After narrowly escaping drowning for a time, and many people of all ages once more, Mr. Bruce happily passed and sexes were still dying every day: , Haffia, and proceeded for Palinyra.

The captain of this little vesiel lost Just before they came in sight of the no time. He had done his butiness ruins, they alcended a hill of white well, and though he was returning for gritty itone, in a very narrow, winding another cargo, yet he cheerfully offered road, such as is called a pass, and, when Mr. Bruce what part of his money he arrived at the top, there opened before should want. They then failed with a then the most aftonithing, Itupendous fair wind, and in four or five days easy tight that perhaps ever appeared to morweather landed at Canea, a confiderable tal eyes, The whole plain below, fortified place at the west end of the which was very extensive, was covered island of Crete. Here our traveller so thick with magnificent buildings, as was taken dangerously ill, occalioned that the one seemed to touch the other, by the bathing and extraordinary ex- all of fine proportions, all of agreeable ertions in the sea of Ptolometa, nor forms, all coinpoled of white stones, was he in the least the better from the which at that diltance appeared like beating he had received, of which he marble. At the end of it food the very long afterwards bore the marks. palace of the sun, a building worthy to

From Canea he failed for Rhodes, and close lo magnificent a fcene. there met with his books; he then pro Mr. Bruce proceeded from Palmyra ceeded to Castelroffo, on the coast of to Balbec, distant about one hundred Caramania, and was there credibly in- and thirty miles, and arrived the same formed that there were very magnificent day that Emir Yousef had reduced the remains of ancient buildings, a short town and settled the government, and way from the shore, on the opposite was decamping from it on his return continent. Caramania is a part of Asia home. This was the luckiest moment Minor yet unexplored.

possible for our traveller, as he was the Disappointed in an attempt to procure Emir's friend, and had obtained liberty new instruments, in the room of those to do there what he pleased ; and to he had loft, he consoled himself that he this indulgence was added the great had pencils and paper ; and luckily his convenience of the Emir's absence, lo large camera obscura, which had escaped that he was not troubled by the obthe catastrophe of Prolometa, was ar- servance of any court-ceremony or atrived from Smyrna. He therefore be- tendance, or teased with impertinent gan to look about for the means of ob- questions. taining feasible and safe methods of Balbec is pleafantly situated in a repeating the famous journey to Pal- plain on the west of Anti Libanus, is myra.

finely watered, and abounds in gardens. From Smyrna, Mr. Bruce went to It is about fifty miles from Hasia, and Tripoli in Syria, and thence to Hallia. about thirty from the nearest sea-coast, From thence he would have gone fouth- which is the situation of the ancient ward to Balbec, but it was then be- Byblus. The interior of the great fieged by Emir Yousef, prince of the temple of Balbec, supposed to be that of Druses, a Pagan nation, living upon the sun, surpasses any thing at Palmount Libanus. He therefore returned myra. to Tripoli, in Syria; and after some Passing by Tyre, from curiofity only, time set out for Aleppo, travelling Mr. Bruce came to be a mournful northward along the plain of Jeune, witness of the truth of that prophecy, bet wixt mount Lebanon and the fea. that Tyre, the queen of nations, ihould He visited the ancient Byblus, and be a rock for fithers to dry their nets


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on. Two wretched fiMermen, with some street of modern houses, where a miserable nets, having just given over very active and intelligent number of their occupation with very little fuccefs, merchants live upon the iniserable remhe engaged them, at the expence of nants of that trade, which inade it's their nets, to drag in those places where glory in the first times. It is thinly they said thell-fim might be caught, in inhabited, and there is a tradition among hopes to have brought out one of the the natives, that, more than once, it has famous purple-fish. He did not succeed, been in agitation to abandon it altobut in this he fupposes he was a's lucky gether, and retire to Rosetio, or Cairo, as the old fishers had ever been. The but that they have been withheld by purple filh at Tyre seems to have been the opinion of divers faints from Arabia, only a concealment of their knowledge who have assured them, that Mecca of cochineal, as, had they depended being destroyed, (as it must be, they upon the fill for their dye, if the whole think, by the Rusians) Alexandria is city of Tyre applied to nothing else but then to become the holy place, and that fishing, they would not have coloured Mahomet's body is to be transported twenty yards of cloth in a year. Much thither. fatigued, but satisfied beyond measure Mr. Bruce arrived at Cairo in the with what he had seen, our traveller beginning of July, recommended to the arrives at Sidon in good health. very holpitable house of Julian and

Mr. Bruce Tailed from Sidon, on the Bertran ; to whom Mr. Bruce imparted 15th of June 1768, bound for the island his refolution of pursuing his journey to of Cyprus. On the 16th, at dawn of Abyssinia.' The wildness of the inday, our traveller saw a high hill, which tention seemed to strike them greatly. from its particular form, described by After a variety of circumstances of Strabo, he took for Mount Olympus. little conséquence, Mr. Bruce was adIt is fingular, that Cyprus should have mitted to an audience of Ali Bey. He semained so lorg undiscovered; thips was a much younger man than our trahad been used in the Mediterranean one veller had conceived him to be; he was thousand seven hundred years before fitting upon a large fofa, covered with Christ; yet, though only a day's sailing crimson cloth of gold; his turban, his from the continent of Asia on the north girdle, and the head of his dagger, all and east, and liitle more from that of thickly covered with fine brilliants ; Africa on the south, it was not known one in his turban, that served to supat the building of Tyre, a little before port a sprig of brilliants allo, was among the Trojan war, that is, five hundred the largeit Mr. Bruce had ever seen. years after ships had been passing and The bey entered into discourse with repassing in the surrounding seas. him concerning the Russian and Turk.

On the 17th of June they left Ler. ish war, and conversed fome time with nica ; and, on the 20th, early in the him on that subject. morning, had a distant prospect of Two or three nights afterwards the Alexandria rifing from the sea. On bey sent for him again. It was near the first view of the city, the mixture of eleven o'clock before he got admittance. old monuments, such as the Column of He met the janissary Aga going out, Pompey, with the high Moorish towers and a number of soldiers at the door. and Iteeples, 'raise expectations of the As Mr. Bruce did not know this officer, consequence of the ruins to be found; he passed him, without ceremony, which but the moment travellers are in port, is not usual. Wlienever he mounts on the illusion ends, and they distinguish horseback, he has absolute power of the immense Herculean works of an life and death, without appeal, throughcient times, now few in number, from out Cairo and its neighbourhood: the ill-imagined, ill-constructed, and The Aga stopt Mr. Bruce just at imperfect buildings, of the several bar- the threshold, and asked one of the barous masters of Alexandria in later bey's people who he was ? and was ages. There are two ports, the Old and answered, “ It is Hakim Englefe," the the New, which are by no means safe. English philosopher, or physician. He

There is nothing beautiful or pleasant politely asked Mr. Bruce, in Turkish, in the present Alexandria, but a hand- if he would wait on hill, for he was not VOL. II.




near him.

well? He answered him in Arabic, as from the bęy, he prepared for his
“ Yes, whenever he pleased, but could journey.
not then stay, as he had received a mes. On the other fide of the Nile, from
fage that the bey was waiting.” He Cairo, is Geeza ; and about eleven
replied in Arabic, “ No, no; go, for miles beyond this are the pyramids,
God's fake go; any time will do for called the Pyramids of Geeza.

It has been a constant belief, that the The bey was sitting, leaning forward, fones compofing these pyramids were with a wax taper in one hand, and read. brought from the Libyan mountains, ing a small Nip of paper, which he held though any one who will take the pains close to his face. He seemed to have to remove the sand on the south side, little light, or weak eyes ; nobody was will find the solid rock there hewn into

steps. In the roof of the large chamHe did not seem to observe Mr. Bruce ber, where the farcophagus ttands, as till he was close upon him, and started also in the top of the roof of the gallery, when he said, " Salam.” He told are large fragments of the rock; affordhim he came upon his message. The ing an unanswerable proof, that those bey said, " I thank you, did I send for pyramids were once huge rocks, ftandyou?” and without giving him leave to ing where they now are; that some of reply, went on, " O true, I did so," them, the most proper from their form, and fell to reading his paper again. were chosen for the body of the pyraAfter this was over, he complained mid, and the others hewn into steps, to that he had been ill, that he vomitted serve for the superstructure, and the eximmediately after dinner, though he eat terior parts. moderately; that his fiomach was not On the 12th of December, Mr. yet fettled, and was afraid something Bruce embarked on the Nile at Bulac, had been given him to do him mischief. on board a sort of vessel called a Canja.

Our traveller felt his pulse, which The wind being contrary, they were was low and weak; but very little fe- obliged to advance against the itream, veriíh. He desired he would order his by having the boat drawn with a rope, people to look if his meat was dressed in They advanced a few miles to two concopper properly tinned ; he assured him

vents of cophts called Deireteen. Here he was in no danger, and infinuated they stopped to pass the night, having that he thought he had been guilty of had a fine view of the pyramids of fome excess before dinner ; at which he Geeza and Saccara, and being then in smiled, and said to one who was standa sight of a prodigious number of others ing by, “ Afrite ! Afrite! he is a devil! built of white clay, and Atretching far he is a devil!"

into the desert to the south-welt. Two Mr. Bruce's favour with the bęy be- of these seemed full as large as those ing established by frequent interviews, that are called the Pyramids of Geeza. he thought of leaving his folitary man One of them was of a very extraordinary fion at the convent. He desired Mr. form; it seemed as if it had been ins Risk, the bey's secretary, to procure his tended at first to be a very large one, peremptory letters of recommendation but that the builder's heart or means to shekh Haman, to the governor of had failed him, and that he had only Syene, Ibrim, and Deir, in upper brought it to a very milhapen disEgypt. He procured also the same proportioned head. from the janissaries, to these three lalt On the side of the Nile, opposite places, as their garrisons are from that to their boat, a little farther to the body at Cairo, which they call their south, was a tribe of Arabs encamped. Port. He had also letters from Ali These were subject to Cairo, or were Bey, to the bey of Suez, to the sherriffe -then at peace with its government. of Mecca, to the naybe (so they call the They are called Howadat, being a part fovereign) of Masuah, and to the king of the Atouni, 'a large tribe that porof Sennaar, and his minister for the time fesses the isthmus of Suez, and from being.

that go up between the Red Sea and the Having obtained all his letters and mountains that bound the east part of dispatches, as well from the patriarch the valley of Egypt. They reach to


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the length of Cokeir, where they border gined, however, that there had been
upon another large tribe called Ababdé, such a tree; because opposite to one of
which extends from thence up into Nu. the divisions into which this large island
bia. Both these are what were anciently is broken, there was a village called
called Shepherds, and are constantly at Zeitoon, or the Olive Tree,
war with each other.',

They passed by a number of villages
Mr. Bruce now bargained with the on the western lhore, the eastern seen.
Shekh of the Howadat to furnith him ing to be perfectly unpeopled : First,
with horses to go to Metrahenny, or Fesné, a considerable place ; then Mia
Mohannan, where once he said Mimf niet, a large town, which had been
had food, a large city, the capital of fortified towards the water, at least
all Egypt. All this was executed with there were some guns there.
great Juccess. Early in the morning They came to a village called Rhoda,
the Azekh of the Howadat had passed at whence they saw the magnificent ruins
Miniel, where there is a ferry, the Nile of the ancient city of Antinous, built
being very deep, and attended our tra. by Adrian. Unluckily Mr. Bruce knew
veller with five horsemen and a spare nothing of these ruins when he left Cairo,
horse for himself, at Metrahenny, fouth and had taken no pains to provide him-
of Miniel, where there is a great plan- self with letters of recommendation.
tation of palm-trees.

The Nubian geographer informs us; On the 13th, our traveller let out that it was from this town Pharaoh their valt fails, and passed a considerable brought his magicians, to compare willage called Turra, on the ealt side of their

powers with those of Mofes ; an the river, and Shekh Atman, a small anecdote worthy that great historian. ! village, consisting of about thirty houses, Ous traveller told the Rais, that he on the west.

must, of necessity, go asore. He did The Nile here is about a quarter of a not seem to be fond of the expedition ; mile broad: it is by very far the nar but hauling in his main-fail, and with Towest part of Egypt yet seen ; for it is his fore-sail full, stood S. S. E. directly certainly less than half a mile between under the ruins. In a short time they the foot of the mountain and the Li- arriwed at the landing-place. byan Qore.

Abou Cuffi's fon Mahomet, (whom Having gained the western edge of they had taken as a hostage) and the the palm-trees at Mohannan, our tra- Arab, went on fore, under pretence of yeller had a fair yiew of the pyramids buying some provision. In the mean at Geeza, which lie in a direction nearly time, partly with his naked eye, and S. W. They saw three large granite partly with his glass, Mr. Bruce was pillars S. W. of Mohannan, and a enabled to contemplate the ruins attenpiece of a broken chest or cistern of tively, which filled him with astonishgranite; but no obelisks, or kones with ment and admiration. The columns of hieroglyphics, and they thought the the angle of the portico were standing greatel part of the ruins seemed to fronting to the north, part of the tympoint that way, or more foutherly. panum, cornice, frize, and architrave,

Thefe, their conductor faid, were all entire, and very much ornamented; the ruins of Mimf, the ancient seat of thick trees hid what was behind. The the Pharaohs kings of Egypt; that columns were of the largest size and there was another Mimf, far down in fluted; the capitals Corinthian, and in the Delta, by which he meant Menouf, all appearance entire. They were of below Terane and Batnel Baccara, white Parian marble probably, but had

Mr. Bruce returned to his boat; lost the extreme whiteness, or polish, and pursuing his route, arrived at Ha of the Antinous at Rome, and were louan, an island now divided into a changed to the colour of the fighting number of small ones, by calithes be- gladiator, or rather to a brighter yellow. ing cut through it,' and, under different He saw indistinctly, also, a triumphal Arabic names, they still reach very far arch, or gate of the town, in the very vp the 'Atream. Mr. Bruce landed to fame file; and some blocks of very see if there were remains of the olive white shining stone which seemed to be tree which Strabo says grew here, but alabaster, without success. Our travellers ima.

(To be continued.} Ff2


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