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" In proportion, as we approached pendicularly on its feet, with a laugh this place, the noise excited our curi- able air of gravity; and, what renders ofity, the more fo, as the sea breaking its appearance ftill more ridiculous, the with violence against the rocks (which wings, entirely devoid of feathers, hang form a kind of rampare round this negligently by their fides, and are of no island) feemed to re-echo the hollow use, except in swimming. As we adbuzzing, the cause of which we could vanced towards the middle of the isle, not possibly divine. At length we ar- we encountered innumerable troops of vived, I cannot say we landed, for the them stalking along erect. Thefe creaearth was covered with water, and the tures did not by any means derange surf was so violent, that we were every themselves on our, appearance, but moment covered with it.

crowded particularly about the above “ With great difficulty and danger mentioned monument, in such a manwe stimbed up the rocks, and gained ner as seemed to forbid our approach ; the level plain. Never did a more ex- every avenue was obstructed by them. traordinary spectacle present itself to more Nature had added to the simple tomb tal eye! There arose from the whole of this poor Danish captain, what the surface of the idle, an impenetrable imagination of the poet, and the chiffel cloud, which formed, at about forty of the artist, could not possibly have or fifty feet above our heads, an im• reached. The best seulptured fereech menfe canopy, or rather sky of birds, owl on our moft fuperb mausoleum has of all forms, and of all colours : cor- not so hideous, so melancholy an aspect morants, sea-gulls, swallows, pelicans, as the manchot : the moumful notes of all the feathered inhabitants of the air, this bird, mingled with the cries of the who frequent this part of Africa, secm- fea calf, impress the mind with forrow, ed assembled in this place; while alt and form the heart to tenderness. For their various croakings mingled toge- fome time I fixed my eyes on this last ther, and modified according to their asylum of an unfortunate voyager, and different kinds, formed music, that I offered the tribute of a figh to his was every moment obliged to stop my manes. ears in order to diminish the din, and After retuming from Saldanha Bay, afford myself fome relaxation.

our author spent three months at the The alarm was the more generał Cape, in order to make every possible among these innumerable legions of preparation for his intended journey. birds, as we had principally to do with But this time was partly spent in drawfemales ; it was precisely the season of ing such observations as appeared worth their breeding, and they had their nests, preserving at that place. their eggs, and their young ones to de- “ The beer they brew at the Cape is fend. They attacked us like enraged much esteemed; but they place a very harpies, and actually deafened us with high value on that which is brought their cries. Sometimes they fought or from Europe ; its price fluctuates from full wing, even rushing with violence swelve to twenty-four sous the botile : against us; they seemed regardless of there is a great demand here for liquors our thot, and nothing was capable of in general. dispersing them; nor could we make a ii On entering a house, you are ale step without crushing either eggs or ways presented with a fopi, that is to young ones under our feet. The earth fay, with a glass of arrack, Geneva, was absolutely covered with them. or perhaps French brandy. Geneva,

“ The caverns and crevices of the however, is the common morning dram. rocks were inhabited by phocases and Before they set down to cable, the etimors, a sort of fea calves and sea lions. quette is to offer a fopi of white wine, We killed, among others, one of the in which wormwood or aloes have been latter fort, of an enormous fize. steeped, to create an appetite. At table

“ The most trilling shelter furnishes they drink beer or wine indiscriminately. a retreat for the manchots, who abound After the defert, the ladies retire to a above all others. This bird, which is different apartinent, they then bring in about cwo feet high, does not carry his pipes and tobacco, with a recruit of body like other birds, but walks per: wine for the men; mean time the ladies


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are served with coffee, rhenish, and mo- he was glad he had committed the felle. They then form themselves into crime, that he well knew the death atcard parties, while the men continue to sending the commission of it, which he drink and finoke, and if any interesting, ardently wished for, as it would return or witty subject is started among them, him to his native country. I am amazed at is sure to furnish a pretext for a few such an error does not cause greater

mismore bumpers. This is their usual fortunes. manner of living, with this difference, " The Creole Alaves at the Cape are that those in indifferent circumstances moft esteemed; they are sold at double drink their own wine, but in this par- the price of the others; and if they ticular, the vanity of the inhabitants know any business, their price is exoris often very ridiculous; one day as I bitant. A cook will fell from eight to was walking with Mr. Boers, he made twelve hundred sixdollars, and others mre observe a man feated at the door in proportion to their talents... They are of his house, who seeing we were near ever nearly dressed, but walk barefoot, him, began calling to his Have with a as a mark of lavery. At the Cape loud voice, to bring him some red wine, there is none of that insolent train though the fiscal assured me, he had not called footmen, luxury and pride not a single bottle at his command, and that having yet introduced this useless lummost likely he had not drank of it ten

ber of the anti-chambers of the great. times in his life; when I had passed “ A stranger is surprized on his arhim fome little way, I turned and law rival at the Cape, to see a multitude of zhat it was beer his llave had brought flaves as fair as Europeans; but astonillihim.

ment ceases when it is known the young
“ For twelve leagues round the Cape female negroes have generally a lover
the coľonists do not employ Hottentots, among the foldiers of the garrison,
Father buying negroes who are not so with whom they generally pass the
lazy, and whom they can more fafely Sunday; the interest of the matter
trust. The Hottentots, carelels and makes him overlook the morals of his
inconstant by nature, often go away laves, he profiting by their licentious
on the approach of hard labour, and conduct.”
leave their masters in embarralinent; The following account, given by our
the negroes desert also, but vain is their author, of his travelling apparatus, will

efforts for liberty, they are foon retakey, be found acceptable.
Cand sent to the bailiff of the canton, I had got every thing in readiness
from whom the prosecutor reclaims for the journey; my baggage was con-

them for a small fine, after they have fiderable; for in the firit ardour which
· received some trifling correction ; nor had transported my imagination beyond
is there any part of the world where its ordinary course, I had set no bounds
the flaves are treated with such huma. to my travels, but resolved to prosecụte
nity as at the Cape.

thein to the utmost possible extent, and is The negroes of Mosambique and wished above all things not to be conMadagascar are regarded as the belt strained to return for want of indirworkmen, and most affectionate to their pensible neceffaries. I kħew too that malters; when they are landed at the my return might not be equally in Cape, they usually tell from a hundred my power with the departure; I had and twenty to a hundred and fifty therefore taken care not to neglect even piasters a head.

those things which were not absolutely ". The Indians are more employed necessary, but which might be servicein houshold work in the town, there able in a number of unforeseen circum. are also Malayans, who are the most stances, and I was even afraid of forfubtle and dangerous of Aaves. Aflaf- getting fomething, the want of which finating their master or inistress is with I might have occasion to regret. them a common crime; during the five “ The three months I had passed years I passed in Africa, I saw many at the Cape, fince my expedition to instances of it. They go to execution the Bay of Saldanha, liad been fully with the greatest indifference. I heard employed in these necessary preparaone of these wretches fay to Mr. Boers,' tions.

I had

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I had provided myself with two few other necessaries, composed my Jarge four-wheeled waggons, covered whole equipage. with a tilt. Five large chelts just co- “ I had provided myself with a good vered the bottom of one of the carriages, stock of linen, plenty of sugar candy, and I could readily open any one of and white sugar, coffee, tea, and fome them without displacing the rest. On pounds of chocolate. thefe was a mattrass, which I proposed " As I was to furnish tobacco, and inaking use of as a bed during my brandy for the Hottentots that accomjourney, whenever it happened, that panied me, I had a large quantity of riant of time, or any other cause pre- the first, and two casks of the latter; vented me pitching my teni. At the packages of glass and hardware to head of my maitrals I placei a little change occasionally, or procure the chelt of drawers, which I meant Mould friendlhip of the natives ; a large tent, contain my infects, butterflies, or any and the necessary implements for mendother objects whose tender texture might ing my waggons, and for running of require care It was in this first wag. lead; an engine for raising weights; gón that I fiowed all iny arms and am- fonie nails, iron in bars, &c. with pins, munition, and we called it the matter needles, and thread, composed the second wagon; one of my before mentioned part of my travelling equipage. cheits was divided into squares, each My two waggons might weigh filled with a cafe bottle, containing five about five thousand pounds weight, or lix pounds of powder, besides výhich and the astonishment they occasioned I had several barrels, which to preserve among the favages afforded me much from fire, or moisture, I had caused to amusement. be fewn up in fresh sheep skins, which " My train confifted of thirty oxen, drying over the barrels, formed an im, twenty for the two waggons, and ten to penețrable covering. I reckoned alto relieve them occasionally; three horses gether that I had about five hundred for hunting, nine dogs, and five Hotweight of powder, and not less than tentots: my number of men and anitwo thousand weight of lead and pewe mals was occasionally much iņcreased, ter, wrought and unwrought; fixteen of the first sometimes to the number of muskets, ane of which I designed for forty. They were generally augmented the larger kinds of animals (such as or decreased, according to the state of the elephant, rhinoceros and hyppopo- my kitchen; for in the defarts of Afrikamus) was of a larger bore than ordi- ca, as in other and more polished counDary, and carried a quarter of a pound tries, there are a number of parasites ; of powder. I had belides these several but these, without being much expence, pair of double barrelled pistols, a large were not totally uselels, as they fur, cimiter, and a dagger.

nished me with frequent opportunities “ My second wagyon contained a . of forming a judgınent of the temper whimsical medley, but which was not and genius of this people. ou that account the less eftimable. This

My baggage being ready, I took was my kitchen. How many exquisite leave of my friends, setting out the and peaceable repaits lias it furnished 18th of December 1781, on horseback, me with! How plealing are the details at the head of my cavalcade; it was of this charming and domestic life to not my design to make long stages; I my heart! I never affitt at those din- led the way towards Dutch Hottentote, mers where etiquette and tedioufnels and topped at the decline of day, at pretide, but the difgust they occation the foot of those high mountains that brings to my remembrance my charm- border the east of the Cape. ing African meals, where my honest Hottentots provided the banquet for “ I passed a little river called Buffias; their friend,

and after two days journey, arrived at “ My kitchen furniture was not a'wood named le Bois de grand Pere. very considerable; a gridiron, trying I determined to stay here till the next pan, tivo faucepans, and a large pot, day, and prepared accordingly, withjome plates and diljeș, coffee and tea ing to explore the wood. In calling cups, balons, iwo tea kettles, and a

my dogs, I observed that a little bitch,


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named Rosette, which I was very fond 'prefer the simplicity of their country to of, was wanting. Concerned at its thefe seducing pictures; looking on abfence (as it was a real loss to my such resources as vile and illiberal in pack) I enquired of all my people men, who boast a superiority over those whether they had seen her on the road; who are only instructed by nature. pne, only, assured me he had fed her in Worthy, injured people whom so the morning. After an hour or two many have taken pleasure to represent spent in fruitless searches, I sent out my as unnatural monsters, devouring each Hottentots to call on all sides, and fired other! an infant might lead ye ! Peacemy piece several times, thinking the ful Hottentots! behold with disdain report might reach, and put her on the those harsh invaders who first reduced to scent. When I saw these endeavours flavery, then basely traduced and placed did not succeed, I ordered one of the ye on a level with the brutes ! men to mount my horse, and return the way we came, directing him to spare no

"DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY pains in tracing my favourite.

OF AUTENIQUAS. " In about four hours we saw the “ All the country of Auteniquas, messenger returning on the full gallop, from the mountains to the sea, is inhacarrying before him, on the pommel of bited by colonists, who breed vast quanthe laddle, a chair and a large basket; tities of cattle, make butter, gather Rosette was running before, appearing honey, and cut wood, all which articles as pleased to see me, as I was satisfied are sent to the Cape. I was almost exwith her return.

asperated to see these people, who have The Hottentot informed me he such plenty of timber at hand, dispose had found her at about two leagues of all they could cut, not building distance, seated in the road, by the side themselves tenable houses, but living of the chair and basket, which had in miserable huts, formed of hurdles, dropped from our waggon without be- covered with earth. The skin of a but ing perceived. I had heard much of falo, tied by the corners to four stakes, the fidelity of dogs, in similar cases ; ferves as a bed; a mat closes the enbut this was the first instance I had ever trance, which is also the window ; two witnessed."

or three broken chairs, some pieces of, From our author's account of passing plank by way of table, and a miserable þis leisure time among his fellow-tra- box of about two feet square, compose vellers, we have selected the following the whole furniture of one of these dens. passage.

The extreme misery of the dwellings “ Sometimes our discourse led us disagreeably contrasts the charms of þeyond the usual hour, and I must this terrestrial paradise, whose beauties own, these uneducated people had often extend beyond the limits of AyteniAtrokes of wit and humour in their con- quas. In other respects these people yersation that surprised me: I quel- live luxuriously; they have plenty of tioned them particularly on Colben, game and sea-fis, and enjoy an advanand the different accounts authors give iage over the other colonists, in having, of their religion, laws and customs; all the year, without interruption, their some of these interrogatories would oc- gardens well stocked with vegetables. çafion them to laugh in my face, at “ They owe these advantages both to other times they were downright angry, the goodness of the soil, and the natural supposing these enquiries were meant waterings from the various rivulets that either to teaze, or undervalue their fa- wind and cross each other in a thousand culties and knowledge. I sometimes different directions; and lay under condescribed that set of beings, who in tribution (if I may fo express myself) great cities, procure by their finesse an the four seasons of the year.” elegant subsistence, and are entitled In searching for a touraco, which Chevaliers d' duftre; I represented our author had shot, he fell into pit in a thousand forms the tricks of these twelve feet deep, which had been made, camelions, and painted them in the most by the Hottentots, to entrap wild beasts, fartering colours; with what pleasure particularly the elephant. The hole, did I fee my Hottentots unanimously luckily for Mr. Vaillant, was empty


and he had also the good fortune to es, hand several times (a fignal we had cảpe being impaled alive on the pointed before agreed upon) gave us to underIakes fixed at the bottom of these pits. ftand how many elephants he had dis. After many fruitless

efforts to get out, covered. he was at length assisted by his men, " When he had defcended, we conwhom he alarmed by continuing to Sulted what means to pursue; the result difcharge his piece. But the accident, of our deliberations was, that the pere however serious, did not hinder him fon who had discovered them, should from purfuing his wounded bird; which lead us through the bufhes as gear as he at length found, and confidered the possible to the spot where they food. acquisition as a full reward for the Though he led me very near' one of great labour it had coft him.

thefe enormous beasts, I did not at first “ This bird is as agreeable in its perceive him ; not that fear had fafciform and plumage, as in the sweetness nated my fight, but I could not believe and melody of its notes; it is of a that the prodigious immoveable mass bright green, a tuft of the fame co- beneath me was the animal I had fo lour, bordered with white, adorns its much wished to encounter. It fhould head; its eyes a bright red, with a be observed, I was on a little hillock, ftreak over them of the moft dazzling which raised me above the back of the white; its wings are a beautiful pur- elephant; I still kept looking further ple, varying to the violet, according on, and should rather have taken, what to the point of light in which it is was so near me, for a piece of rock than viewed.

a living creature. All this time iny " Those naturaliks who have reck- honest Hottentots kept crying, " See oned it a fpecies of the cuckow, have there ! there he is !"" with a tone of been guilty of a mistake; for it has not the utmost in patience. At length a the lealt affinity with them.

night motion caught my eye, and im“ In every part of the world, the mediately after the head and tusks, cuckow fubfists on fnails, and insects; which the enormous body had in a but the touraco is frugivorous. manner concealed, were turned towards

“ In whatever climate the cuckow me; without losing time or advantage may be, it is remarkable, that she ne- in contemplation, I instantly fired my ver builds a neft, but lays her eggs in carbine, and the ball taking place in those of other birds, and by this means the middle of his forehead, he staggered efcapes the trouble of rearing her young; and fell. This noise frighted the relt, while the touraco, on the contrary, is and they immediately began running careful of its family, builds a neft, and from the spot as fast as possible ; they hatches her own eggs.

were about thirty in number, and it “ This difference in their dispofi- was really amuling to see their huge tions is, I think, a fufficient reason to ears flapping in proportion to the quickprove them a particular species.” ness of their inotions. This was but

Pursuing an elephant, while encamp- the prelude to a more animated scene. ed at the wood Du Poort, our author. "I was examining the animal I had very nearly fell a sacrifice to his intre- killed, when another pafled just by us, pidity.

which received a fhot from one of my “ We had not yet lost the traces of people; hy the blood that followed the the animal we were in search of; after stroke, I judged he was dangerously some hours fatigue and painful walk, wounded, and pursued him immediing among the thorns and briars, we ately. He would have lain down, but arrived at a very open part of the forest, was prevented by our repeated firing. in which was a clump of shrubs and We followed him into a thicket, in under-wood. Here we stopped, while which was a number of decayed trees, one of my Hottentots climbed a tree. that had fallen through age. On our After he had looked about for some fourteenth fire the animal became out. time, he made a sign for us to be filent, rageous, making furiously after the by putting his finger on his mouth, Hottentot that lait wounded him; anoand then, by opening and closing his ther of my men discharged his piece,

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