could I have chosen in which to give reins to my imagination? Besides the fables of mythology and the songs of Homer and Virgil with which Sicily is so much connected, not far from the spot where I sat there rises a pool sacred to Cyane, who was changed into a fountain by Pluto for attempting to stop him when he plunged into the infernal regions with Proserpine. What a romantic history, too, is that of Syracuse-which is almost that of Sicily! Colonised by the Corinthians, who drove the ancient Siculi into the interior, it became so wealthy and powerful that it was able to withstand the power of Athens, and not only defeat the fleets and armies sent against it, but utterly to destroy them-one of the great causes of the decline and fall of Athens. Looking at the spacious harbour, I conjured up in my imagination the fleet of the Athenian galleys bravely striving to break through the strong line of galleys that closed the mouth of the harbour of Marmores against them; the combatants excited by the cheers of the armies, and of the inhabitants, who lined the walls of the city. At length the shouts of the Syracusans announce the defeat of the Athenians, whose galleys lie helpless on the beach.

The liberty of Syracuse being destroyed by the tyrants, who, although once driven out, managed to re-establish themselves, Dionysius and his posterity oppressed the mighty city, which became frequently the prey of Carthage. After many years' war it was taken by Rome, then fast becoming mistress of the world, notwithstanding that Archimedes so long by his genius and science baffled the arms of the Republic. I fancied I could see the Roman fleet drawn up in array against the devoted city, when suddenly the mighty engines of Archimedes are put in operation, and descending, lift some of the vessels out of the sea and dash them against the rocks, whilst others are destroyed by fire; so that Archimedes and his engines became the greatest terror to the Roman arms.

Rome having at last become a prey to the barbarians, Sicily, the granary of the world, was despoiled by the Vandals; they, in their turn, were driven out by the Goths; after which it was seized upon by the Saracens and the Eastern emperors; the former of whom eventually overran it, and who, about Palermo, have left many relics of their power. These, after a sway of 200 years, were expelled by the Normans; since which time it has alternately fallen into the hands of adventurers of French, Spanish, and German origin, under the former of whom happened the Sicilian Vespers. During the last war Sicily became the seat of government, and under the care and auspices of England its constitution was remodelled and regenerated. But on the announcement of peace the seat of government was removed, and its constitution and privileges, notwithstanding they were guaranteed by us, trampled upon and destroyed by the court of Naples; till at length the rigid imposts and wretched misrule to which it has been subjected has caused it to break out into revolt,* and instead of being the most fertile and productive country in Europe, it has become the most uncultivated and barren.

Old Boy's usual "Com along o' me, gen'lemen-sun vare hot!" roused me from my reverie, and my friend and myself followed him still higher

*This was written in January, 1848. Several outbreaks had occurred when the writer was in Sicily. The events which have since happened were only to be expected, particularly when the wavering policy of our government was taken into consideration.

up till we got close to the broken aqueduct, and there again took a long survey of the beautiful scene, and distant Etna with its sulphur-crusted summit. Descending, we passed a group of black-skinned and dirtylooking yet merry nymphs cooling their feet in the waters, and then made our way towards the city. Seeing some remarkably fine grapes in a garden, we told Old Boy we should like some: he therefore led the way into it, and we soon found ourselves seated under the overhanging vines clustering with superb grapes, a large supply of which was immediately set before us, by the bright-eyed wife of the owner of the garden. The grapes proved exceedingly refreshing, and we were enjoying the coolness of the place and Old Boy's jocularity, when our party was increased by the arrival of three Syracusan "cockneys," with their cigarettes. Our guide now told us that these gardens were a favourite resort of the Syracusans, and that "De young men do bringe de gals here and dancey to de guitar."

"Are the girls pretty?" inquired we.

"Oh, yas. De English soldiers, when de ware in Sicily, did tink dem vare pretty-dere were many fair-haired childers about," said the old fellow, with a grin.

Resuming our walk, we met several parties evidently going to the gardens, and shortly after entered the gates, round which was a group of soldiers listening to a guitar-player, who alternately sang and improvised. About six we regained our hotel.

Having leisurely finished our cosy and well-served dinner, Old Boy reappeared and begged to introduce to us his friend the muleteer-the self-same man we had seen in the morning. We closely questioned him, as also Old Boy, waiter, and indeed all the establishment, as to the possibility of going to Girgenti by Palazzuola; but finding that they all denied the practicability of doing it, and of going by way of Leutini in less than five days, we were obliged, as my time was limited, though very reluctantly, to retrace our steps to Catania; but instead of going back by the road, we determined to take the mule-path which leads across the mountains and along the sea-shore. We therefore told the muleteer that we should start at six the next morning, and to mind and let us have good mules; when Old Boy, who acted as interpreter, said,

66

No, gen'lemen, no muli; you go along with horses." "Oh said no,

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my friend, we prefer mules."

"Well den, no all muli, gen'lemen. One long white horse, go very fast, carry baggage. You, gen'leman" (to my friend), "have mule, and little gen'leman" (pointing to your humble servant, saving the fellow's impudence) "have horse-beautiful fat big-bellied horse, and English saddle; him take long steps-so," and the old fellow strode across the

room.

Seeing that the man had evidently only one mule, I assented to the fat, big-bellied horse, although I knew it would be to my discomfort, as the horse cannot keep pace at a walk with the mule. This piece of business settled, we dismissed Old Boy and his friend, and then strolled quietly down to the promenade on the quay, which we understood to be the fashionable resort of the Syracusans, and that a band played there between nine and ten o'clock. We had no sooner set foot on the quay than we were surrounded by beggars of all descriptions, and who so

of

pestered us, that my friend, with the consent of the owner who sat by, took a piece of bamboo from a heap of them laying on the wharf, and breaking it in two, gave me one half, wherewith to drive away our persecutors. This, however, had no sooner been done, than the man who gave my friend leave to take the stick came up, and with an infinite variety of gestures, and a half whining half threatening tone, demanded payment for the stick. Although rather annoyed, we could not help laughing at the trick and the fellow's impudence, but to get rid of him I gave him a few grani; and the rest of the beggarly crew were soon dispersed by a gensd'arme, whom some Syracusan gentlemen, seeing the annoyance to which we were exposed, sent to our relief. But few persons were on the promenade, and but one solitary carriage, which, after racing up and down at a desperate pace for a few minutes, disappeared. This promenade is very considerable length-on one side open to the sea, on the other shut in by the city walls, under which is a tolerably well-planted garden, filled with flowers and luxuriant oleanders; and the path for the promenaders along the side of the garden is shaded by a row of trees, between each of which is suspended a lamp. Seated under the shadow of these trees, we passed a couple of hours very pleasantly, chatting over the various adventures we had met with, comparing Syracuse as it is with what it was, and conjecturing what our friends at home were doing. At length, when we began to think that we had made a mistake about there being a band, it being now after ten o'clock, the lamps were lighted, and the musicians took their places in the orchestra, the promenaders became more numerous, and the scene almost one of fairy land; the numerous lights among the trees enabling us to discover the curiously garbed company, among which were several ladies in their black mantillas. The effect produced was one of enchantment. On the shore opposite to us stood the solitary columns of the Temple of Jupiter, just revealed in the pale light of the moon, whose silvery rays danced on the ripples of the sea caused by the small craft making for the inner harbour. The scene, too, was greatly enhanced by the fine military band, which played exquisitely. After playing upwards of an hour, the Bohemian polka was suddenly struck up as a finale, and we then re-entered the deserted-looking city; and after a fruitless search for a café, during which, however, we observed numerous reading-rooms, which seem so much the fashion in Sicily, we returned to our hotel, somewhat fatigued with our day's sight-seeing. Although in modern Syracuse there is little to be seen, and it is most sultry and oppressive, surrounded as it is by high fortifications, which prevent the air from circulating through the streets, yet it is unique and singular in appearance, and the romance of the place is aided by the Asiatic look of the people, and the sombre mantillas of the women. The surrounding country, too, is full of interest, not only to the antiquarian and historian, but also to the lover of nature, and of a sunny sky and placid sea.

September 27.-Before daybreak this morning Old Boy awoke us, and, whilst we were at breakfast, packed our traps on the sumpter-horse; which done, he returned to us, and, with his "Com along o' me, gen'lemen," we followed him, and found our muleteer already perched high on an old white mare. We therefore mounted our respective steeds-my friend, the mule; and "Little Gen'leman," the beautiful fat big-belly horse

1

with English saddle, which fully supported Old Boy's description. It was, however, but a sorry brute on its fore-legs, and fell with me several times.

Wishing our very civil and amusing old guide good-bye, who, to show he knew something of the English and their country, asked for only a "tara more to drinke to de healts of the English," we commenced our journey. Pressing through the crowd of noisy gipsy-looking peasants, who nearly blocked up the gateway, we passed our friend the doganier, who gave us a very polite bow and very knowing grin, and soon found ourselves in the open country.

Our muleteer led the way at an amble of between five and six miles an hour; his boy running by his side, with whom, however, he occasionally changed places, but always, when he did so, giving into the boy s care the charm he otherwise carried fastened to his finger. Breaking off the road, we traversed vast downs, where hardly a blade of vegetation was to be seen, and only a solitary shepherd tending his flock of small black sheep; or a herd of horses, among which I had great difficulty in preventing mine from running.

Suddenly descending, we rode through deep gullies, and crossed most romantic-looking ravines, through which rushed the mountain-torrent, and on whose banks the oleander and numerous beautiful shrubs and flowers flourished and perfumed the air. Fording these torrents, we climbed up the steep and rugged sides of the ravines, and rode for miles over lofty mountains, where no habitation but the solitary tower of the shepherd was visible.

Ascending, we at length arrived at the summit of the ridge of mountains which bounds the vast plain between Leutini and Catania, and then descended through the picturesque forest of chestnut-trees, from which we had a lovely view of Etna and Catania, and still further in the distance to the right the coast of Calabria, washed by the sunny Mediterranean, whose waters appeared almost beneath us.

Arrived at the huts situate at the bottom of the ridge, we stopped to rest, and feed our horses, for half an hour, but where we were unable to obtain either bread, fruit, wine, or even clean water; the only things the old woman could offer us being a rickety three-legged stool, and equally rickety chair. Remounting, we traversed the plain to the sea-shore, where we passed the mouth of the River Quitini, and then continued our route along the margin of the sea, whose waves dashed over our horses' feet, and covered us with their spray.

Again turning inland, we crossed the River Giaretta by the bridge; and then hastening over the long dusty road, reached Catania about five o'clock, much to the surprise and delight of Placido, who seemed in ecstasies at seeing us again-and much to our own surprise and pleasure in again meeting our American friend, who had been detained at Catania for want of a conveyance.

Sept.-VOL. LXXXVII. NO. CCCXLV.

F

LAMARTINE AND THE PROVISIONAL GOVERNMENT.*

LAMARTINE does not disguise from his readers that the assumption of power by himself and his colleagues was as illegal as it was audacious. "An arbitrary election," he says, "made by a small band of insurgents at the foot of an invaded throne was nothing but an usurpation. Their functions might be contested alike by royalty and by the people." By dint, however, of drinking wine with the dragoons of the Quay d'Orsay, embracing armed Amazons, and forcing their way through a crowd rendered "idiotical by too much license" (c'était la demence de la liberté), they ultimately succeeded in reaching the great door of the Hôtel de Ville; and, assisted by M. Flottard, an employé in the Préfecture, after the lapse of some time obtained the use of a room, or rather cellar, where there was a table and chairs, and the narrow dungeon-like approach to which they filled with their armed followers. The usurpation of places in the provisional cabinet by Marrast, Flocon, Paguerre, and Louis Blanc is not denied by Lamartine. But he justly enough remarks—“What legal title could the government have appealed to, to expel the new comers? It had itself no other title but that of its usurpation over anarchy, and its courage in casting itself between civil war and the people. The others had done as much; and place was made for them by virtue of their audacity and the dangers they had run."

"It was necessary," says Lamartine, with garrulous ingenuousness, "that the government should inform the people and the departments as to the persons who had thrown themselves at the head of the movement in order to rule it." And the poet-orator, undertaking the duties at once of president of the council and home minister, issued a first manifesto, in which he spoke of the mission of ruling having been imposed on the members of government, of strong institutions, and of "liberty, equality, and fraternity," as the proposed principles of government. This was followed by an address to the army; wherein it was announced, in a similar manner, that the Provisional Government had sprung from an imperious necessity, and that the army was called upon to lend the government its support, and to fraternise with the people. There was at this time no mention made of usurpation of power; but it was held out that the people who had made the revolution should possibly, at some future period, be allowed to have a voice in ratifying the power of those who in the mean time had acted upon the principle, that actual possession by usurpation was better than a prospective nomination by acclamation. Many general officers, and among them Duvivier, Bedeau, and Lamoricière, gave in their adhesion to the government. The garrison of Vincennes likewise sent in its submission. At least 200,000 men blocked up the approaches to the Hôtel de Ville; and, pressed on all sides, the members of government took boldly on themselves the responsibility of life and death. Each would seize a pen, tear off a fragment of paper and write upon his knee or hat the decree asked for. "Thousands of orders of this kind, signed by Lamartine, Marie, Arago, Ledru Rollin, Flocon, and Louis Blanc, circulated among the crowd during these first few hours." This, it will be perceived, is a very brief and summary manner of accounting for some hasty mandates which history may

Histoire de la Révolution de 1848. Par A. de Lamartine. Paris, 1849.